A Complete Guide to a Perfect 4-Week Itinerary in Colombia
- annapantya
- Nov 29
- 47 min read
What's the first thing that comes to mind when you hear about Colombia? Drugs, crime, danger.
Yes, those were the initial impressions we encountered during our research. And while the country was once (and occasionally still is) associated with drug-related issues, Colombia has made significant progress over the years to shed this image of drugs and crime, demonstrating that this vibrant country is genuinely worth visiting.
In the past, Colombia faced significant challenges, with drug cartels controlling the streets and creating fear among residents, overshadowing the country's vibrant culture and natural beauty. The government has worked tirelessly to change the country's image and achieve lasting peace. However, up until the 21st century, these initiatives were continually obstructed by political conflicts, rebels, and drug wars. Recently, Colombia has become a more stable and secure tourist destination, offering visitors a wide range of attractions that showcase its rich heritage and stunning landscapes. Today, citizens have moved past the horrific events of the 1980s and would rather have their country known for its culture and natural beauty than cartel wars.
For some reason, I've always been fascinated by South America, so I was thrilled when we finally decided to visit Colombia. In our research, we learned the importance of taking certain safety measures due to petty crimes and scams, but beyond that, the country is generally safe to visit.
In this blog, I will share our 4-week itinerary, the main attractions we visited at each destination, some useful insights about Colombia, and some tips and suggestions that might help you if you're planning a trip to the country.
The itinerary
I believe it's fair to say that creating the itinerary was the most challenging task. Colombia is a massive country, and with only four weeks, we wanted to see as much as possible while keeping the journey diverse and adventurous. However, the vast distances between main cities and attractions made our plan quite difficult to execute.
To understand how we put everything together, it helps to look at our main priorities.
Colombia offers endless possibilities - from the Amazon to its Caribbean and Pacific coasts and everything in between - so narrowing down our options wasn't easy.
We chose Bogotá as our base simply because it had the best flight connections to and from Europe. While staying in the capital, we knew we wanted to visit the Tatacoa Desert and were eager to explore the Amazon, particularly Leticia, known for the famous triple frontier. Since Leticia is only accessible by air, we planned to spend several days there to make the trip worthwhile.
We had the Coffee Triangle on our list, especially Salento and the Cocora Valley, with its towering palm trees. Medellín was a must, and we added Santa Marta for the Lost City Trek (though we later decided not to do it). Cartagena, with its rich history and remarkable architecture, was at the top of my list, and we also hoped to visit Cali, but we eventually had to cut it because it didn't fit into our schedule and route.
Despite the disappointment, we understood that even with four weeks, we couldn't see everything. Once we selected the main cities, we prepared a detailed itinerary covering the key attractions we didn't want to miss. Another big decision was how to move between the destinations. Whenever possible, we chose to fly (and sometimes it was the only option) to save time and travel more efficiently.
In the next section, you'll find a detailed description of the destinations we visited and the activities we enjoyed. At the end of this blog, I've also included some tips and recommendations to help you plan your own trip.
Itinerary overview:
The Lost City Trek (and why we didn't do it)
Bogotá - 2 days
BOGOTÁ
Located in the Andean region at an impressive altitude of 2,640 meters, Bogotá is one of the highest capital cities in the world. Due to its high altitude, it is characterized by mild temperatures and distinct wet and dry seasons - very different from the tropical climates found elsewhere in the country. The elevation affects not only the city's climate, but also its biodiversity; its diverse flora and fauna have adapted to the cooler temperatures and varying altitudes around the city.
In addition, Bogotá serves as a cultural and economic center, attracting people from all over the world. The city is renowned for its rich history, lively art scene, and great variety of food, which are certainly worth exploring when visiting the capital.
Must-do activities
There are many activities to enjoy in Bogotá and its surroundings. This city is a perfect destination for travelers seeking outdoor adventures and cultural and historical experiences. Visitors can explore La Candelaria's historic district, featuring cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings, and impressive street art. Bogotá is also a great place for museum-lovers. It is home to world-class museums, including the Gold Museum, which showcases pre-Columbian gold artifacts, and the Botero Museum, featuring works by artist Fernando Botero. For those interested in nature, a visit to Monserrate is a must. It offers breathtaking views of the city from over 3000 meters and features a rich biodiversity. Don't miss exploring the Salt Cathedral in the nearby town of Zipaquirá; it's an excellent choice for a day or afternoon excursion.
Besides the natural and cultural experiences in Bogotá, if you're eager to explore the city's culinary offerings, you will find numerous restaurants and street food vendors serving traditional Colombian dishes, including arepas, empanadas, bandeja paisa, and a variety of tropical fruits.
Monserrate
Situated over 3000 meters above sea level, the top of Monserrate offers an incredible view of Bogotá. It's truly spectacular. On the mountain, you'll find a church with a shrine, a beautifully designed park, and a couple of restaurants. You can easily spend half a day there, finishing it off with a delicious lunch or dinner. That's exactly what we did. Given the number of tourists the day we visited, we chose to walk down instead of waiting in line for the cable car, so we could enjoy the flora and fauna while admiring the city views. It took us about an hour and a half to get down via the hiking trail. It was fun but quite challenging, as most of the stairs are uneven and can be very slippery. I recommend wearing comfortable shoes, preferably non-slippery ones.
There are three ways to reach the mountain: you can take the cable car, use the funicular, or hike up, which takes about 2-3 hours. Unfortunately, the funicular was not operating that day, so we ended up waiting in line for 2 hours (only 2 cable cars were running, each with a maximum of 40 people per trip). To be fair, we arrived at the station around 11:00 AM, which is quite late, and there was already a long queue. If you're planning to visit Monserrate, it's best to arrive as early as possible.
Funicular and cable car operating hours:
Monday to Saturday 6:30 AM - 10:00 PM
Sunday 5:30 AM - 6:00 PM
Tickets can be purchased upon arrival or through the official website (https://monserrate.co/en/).
A one-way ticket costs 19,000 Colombian pesos, while a round-trip ticket is 32,000 pesos. Additionally, platforms such as GetYourGuide and Viator offer combined tickets with prices that vary based on the number and type of activities included.
Graffiti tour
One of our favorite activities in Bogotá was the La Candelaria Graffiti & Urban Art Tour. Colombia, particularly Bogotá, is famous for its graffiti, a form of symbolic art that often expresses social and political messages. Every painting is exquisitely crafted, each with its unique style and story. This tour is not only about street art; you will also gain insight into the history and the reasons behind this impressive form of self-expression. The tour began at Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo, a lively and cozy square where you will witness artists creating graffiti as locals play street music. You can purchase handcrafted jewelry here from local artisans and sample Colombian drinks and delicacies while immersing yourself in the delightful atmosphere. We were fortunate that the tour started here; otherwise, we might have missed this square.
We genuinely enjoyed walking through the narrow cobblestone streets, lined with colorful colonial buildings adorned with impressive paintings. Our guide was fantastic; not only was she knowledgeable, but she also spoke about the art with enthusiasm and respect. We loved every moment of this tour.
La Candelaria
If you don't have any activities scheduled, wandering through the La Candelaria neighborhood and exploring Plaza de Bolívar are wonderful options. In this square, you will find historic buildings like the National Capitol and the Palace of Justice, with the statue of Simón Bolívar in the center. Whether you're looking to enjoy a delicious coffee at a local café, check out the vendors selling fresh fruits, street food, souvenirs, and more, or simply just want to sit down and watch the world go by, you will not be disappointed.
Gold Museum
Located in the center, near Plaza de Bolívar, this archeological museum is one of the most visited tourist attractions in the country. It features Colombia's pre-Hispanic goldwork and artifacts across four levels, offering insights into the history, culture, and daily life of indigenous people. The museum houses the largest collection of pre-Columbian gold, with more than 34,000 pieces, as well as other antiques, like textiles, pottery, ceramics, and more, totaling an additional 60,000 items. If you're passionate about history and interested in an extensive exhibition of gold items, this is a must-visit. Due to the museum's size, plan to spend 3 to 4 hours, or even half a day exploring it. Although my sister and I aren't big museum enthusiasts, our curiosity led us to take a brief tour. Honestly, it confirmed our feelings - it's just not our thing. However, if you enjoy museums, don't miss it.
Emerald workshop
While in Bogotá, we learned about the Colombian Emerald ring workshop, but we weren't sure we wanted to participate, so we waited until the end of our trip to return to the capital city. Since we were looking for a special souvenir to take home, we talked it through and ultimately decided to sign up for the workshop on our last day. We booked the activity through GetYourGuide, and it wasn't cheap at all (nearly 300 dollars for the two of us), but I can confidently say it was the best thing we did in Bogotá. Besides learning about Colombian emeralds, this tour was about creating our own emerald ring at a local workshop. We chose the shape and design, and participated in every step of the ring-making process with a professional. The price included a basic ring with a small emerald, though we could pay extra for a larger stone or additional ones. Both the guide and the jewelers were experts, explaining every detail about the emeralds and the entire process. This was not a typical tourist activity but something truly unique and memorable. If you're visiting Bogotá, don't hesitate to do it.
Salt Cathedral
Located in the town of Zipaquirá, about an hour drive from Bogotá, this underground Roman Catholic church was constructed within the tunnels of a salt mine, 180 meters below the surface. Inside the cathedral, there are many attractions to explore, including a replica of the door from St. Peter's Basilica, three central naves, a water mirror, a dome, and more. As much as we wanted to see the cathedral, we unfortunately had to miss it due to my sister's claustrophobia.
As I mentioned before, we planned to visit the Tatacoa Desert, though we hadn't decided on exact dates beforehand. Since the desert is 350 km from the capital city, we understood that we needed to allocate two days for the trip, specifically the third and fourth days of our stay in Bogotá.
A COMPLETE GUIDE TO TATACOA DESERT
Before heading to the Tatacoa Desert, there are a few things to consider:
First, you need to travel to Neiva, and you have to decide whether to fly or take a bus. Flights from Bogotá to Neiva are available daily and take about an hour, whereas bus trips can take up to 6 hours (excluding potential delays such as roadworks or breakdowns). Once you've selected your mode of transportation, you need to figure out where to stay. The nearest town (Villavieja) to the desert is only a 15-minute drive away, while it takes an hour to get there from Neiva. Finally, consider whether you want to explore the Tatacoa Desert independently or with a guide.
Regardless of how you arrive in Neiva, you will need an extra hour to get to Villavieja. And since it's best to visit the desert early to avoid the heat and crowds, Villavieja is the perfect starting point (though many organized tours depart from Neiva). Opting for a private guide will make the tour more convenient and will provide you with detailed information about the desert. If you choose to go on your own, your best bet is to hire a tuk-tuk to take you to the entrances and wait for you to finish, but you'll explore the desert on your own.
Moreover, the desert is home to several observatories where you can view stars and planets on clear nights. While the Astronomical Observatory is one of the most popular, if you don't speak Spanish and want a more peaceful place, I suggest visiting VyctoriaStars Observatory. Although it has fewer telescopes, the instructor speaks English, and this observatory is less crowded, offering a more personalized experience for visitors.
Now, let's see how we executed this trip:
Since we had several domestic flights scheduled during this trip, we agreed to take the bus from Bogotá to Neiva, and then a taxi to Villavieja. Our itinerary included an overnight stay, exploring the desert the following day, and returning to Bogotá in the evening.
Several bus companies provide similar prices and amenities, with most buses leaving from the main bus terminal, Terminal de Transporte. We chose the Coomotor bus company. If you're booking tickets online, don't make the same mistake we did, and avoid using a third-party website (we used Bookaway). Our tickets for both directions were not recognized at check-in, and we almost missed the bus, causing a lot of inconvenience. It's better to reserve tickets directly on the bus company's website (though some may have issues, which is why we ended up using Bookaway), or you can purchase them at the bus terminal in advance.
Typically, this bus journey takes about 6 hours, but our trip lasted 7. Keep in mind that there's no Uber service in this area, so you'll need to take a taxi to Villavieja or to your accommodation in Neiva. Most hosts in Villavieja offer tours to the desert and the observatory, ensuring a more comfortable and stress-free experience. Without a specific plan or guide, we accepted our host's offer and had her driver take us to the observatory in the evening. Unfortunately, the visit wasn't what we expected or had been told about. The place was crowded and impersonal, and no one, including our driver (who was supposed to be our guide for the desert), spoke English. Despite the disappointment, we miraculously ended up at VyctoriaStars Observatorio Astronómico, where the instructor was welcoming and spoke English. Also, we were lucky to meet someone who offered to be our guide the next day (and who, thankfully, spoke English).
Covering roughly 330 square kilometers, the desert features canyons and peaks in shades of grey, red, and ochre yellow, adorned with lively green cactuses. Although it looks like a desert, it is in fact a dry tropical forest. Tatacoa Desert is divided into two main areas with their own unique colors: the Red Desert (El Cuzco) and the Grey Desert (Los Hoyos).
The hike with our tour guide, Brayan, began in the Red Desert. He was phenomenal- informative, friendly, and helpful; exactly what you would hope for in a tour guide. He shared fascinating insights during the tour. The hike is relatively easy, with trails winding between the stunning formations. When you reach the El Cuzco viewpoint at the trail's end, the entire red desert unfolds before you. It feels both magical and surreal, as if you were on another planet. After exploring the Red Desert, we continued to the next stop, the Grey Desert, known for its grey formations. This part of the desert is not a typical sand dune, but a tropical rainforest with serpentine rocky valleys and lots of cactuses. A particularly interesting part was the Valley de las Fantasmas (Valley of Ghosts), where wind and erosion have created surreal, ghost-like formations. This hiking trail through grey and green structures ends at a natural pool where you can enjoy a well-deserved rest.
The tour was beyond our expectations, despite some initial difficulties, and I can confidently say it was worth the travel and effort. Much credit goes to Brayan, who made our trip memorable. Nevertheless, if we were to do it again, we would probably opt to fly instead of taking the bus.
If you're visiting the desert from Villavieja and haven't arranged a guide, I highly recommend Brayan. You can contact me for his information.
Travel distances from Bogotá to the Tatacoa Desert:
Bogotá - Neiva: 315 km - 6-7 hours
Neiva - Villavieja: 40 km - 1 hour
Neiva - Tatacoa: 45 km - 1 hour
Villavieja - Tatacoa: 7 km - 15 minutes
In summary:
Whether you choose to fly or take the bus, it's advisable to allocate two days for this journey for your convenience.
The ideal time to head to the desert is in the early morning to avoid the heat.
While you can explore the area on your own, a guide is recommended for both navigation and the valuable insights they offer.
Be mindful of the weather and check the forecast in advance, as thunderstorms may occur.
Stay flexible, explore, and enjoy.
AMAZONAS - LETICIA
Located in the southernmost part of Colombia, bordered by Peru (Santa Rosa) and Brazil (Tabatinga), the capital of Amazonas offers a variety of tours and expeditions into the world's largest rainforest.
As mentioned earlier, the only way to access Leticia is by air. Both Latam and Avianca provide daily flights from Bogotá, with the journey taking approximately 2 hours. Upon arrival, foreign visitors are required to pay a 50,000 peso entry tax for the Amazon.
Besides the Amazon expeditions, there are several other activities available in Leticia. You can explore Parque Santander, especially at sunset, where thousands of parakeets come to roost, filling the area with their noisy chatter. The best way to observe them is from the church tower located in front of the park. Additionally, there's an ethnographic museum to visit as well as the famous sign marking the triple frontier. Crossing the borders into Peru and Brazil can be a fun adventure; just make sure to do it by tuk-tuk or motorbike, unlike us, who crossed on foot.
While most tours that begin in Leticia are multi-day excursions involving overnight stays in the jungle, Puerto Nariño offers easily accessible day trips. These include night walks, day or half-day jungle treks, and boat rides featuring piranha fishing and pink dolphin watching. While those multi-day jungle treks seemed thrilling and undoubtedly adventurous, we quickly realized they weren't for us, so we chose the day trips instead. Therefore, we decided to spend only one night in Leticia before heading to Puerto Nariño to fully immerse ourselves in nature and discover the Amazon's beauty.
AMAZONAS - PUERTO NARIÑO
Puerto Nariño, the second biggest town in the Amazonas municipality, is located on the banks of the Amazon River. The peaceful town is completely pedestrian, with no cars or motorcycles allowed, and most of its residents are indigenous. The only way to get there from Leticia is by boat. Tickets can be purchased at the port of Leticia for 42,000 pesos, and the boats depart four times a day: 7 AM, 9 AM, 12 PM, and 2 PM. The ride is quite scenic, and the fact that you're cruising down the Amazon is truly amazing. Once you arrive in Puerto Nariño, someone will likely meet you and take you to your hotel. Additionally, tourists must pay a 20,000-peso tax upon entry.
Where to stay in Puerto Nariño?
Try not to repeat our mistake by staying in the jungle. We booked a cabana at Eco Hotel Aldea, located right inside the rainforest. At first, the idea of being close to nature and waking up to the jungle's beautiful sounds seemed exciting. However, our experience was rather uncomfortable. Don't get me wrong - if you're really adventurous and not easily frightened by bugs, lizards, and other tropical creatures, it might suit you. But being in the middle of nowhere, exposed to the wild, didn't feel safe to us. Furthermore, remember that such accommodations might be far from town, requiring longer walks. And that's what happened to us; we didn't realize we'd have to walk through the jungle in complete darkness to return to our hotel in the evenings. Despite the stunning surroundings, after two nights, we decided to head back to Leticia.
Which tours to do?
Whether you're interested in day tours, half-day tours, or multi-day jungle treks, there are countless options to choose from, tailored to your preferences, available time, and personality. Here's a brief list of some of the excursions:
Lake Tarapoto
This beautiful jungle lake is fed by the Amazon River and is home to a variety of aquatic life and other animal species, including pink river dolphins, black caiman, and pirarucu, one of the largest freshwater fish.
Our favorite activity was the Lake Tarapoto boat ride, where we floated through a flooded forest and admired the remarkable flora and fauna, including lush trees, dense bushes, colorful birds, and playful monkeys. We looked for pink dolphins and tried piranha fishing. It's not essential to book this tour in advance; you can likely arrange it through your hotel. That's precisely how we did it, and it was the highlight of our stay in the Amazon.
San Antonio community of Peru
The "San Antonio" Peruvian community encompasses several locations, including the well-known indigenous community called "Cacao Island" and other villages in the Peruvian Amazon. The area is recognized for its cuisine, sustainable practices, and ecotourism. San Antonio attracts tourists with its ecological trail, ideal for wildlife observation, particularly sloths.
The half-day tour featured a three-hour jungle trek led by a local guide on the Peruvian side of the jungle. During the hike, we had the opportunity to see various species like colorful birds, monkeys, and sloths. After an exhausting walk in the heat and humidity, we enjoyed a traditional lunch in the village (which wasn't included in the tour price). Be aware that the hike becomes quite challenging once you enter the dense jungle. The intense sun, high humidity, and the lack of breeze make it difficult to continue. Moreover, the chances of spotting sloths and monkeys are very low, as they tend to hide from the scorching heat. While I wouldn't discourage you from signing up for this trip, it's important to consider these factors before booking.
Amazon night hike
We also considered the Amazon night hike, which lets you observe various animals in the jungle after dark. Accompanied by a guide, you can see and hear different nocturnal creatures. Although it sounded exciting, there was no guarantee of seeing any animals, and walking around in pitch darkness wasn't quite inviting, so we decided to skip this activity.
Exploring Puerto Nariño
To enjoy a peaceful afternoon, stroll through this delightful town and discover the statues symbolizing the Amazonas. Climb the observation tower to admire the spectacular sunset over the river. Visiting sanctuaries and communities is another popular option. Consider trips to the Mocagua Monkey Sanctuary, San Antonio or Santa Teresita communities, or Amacayacu National Park, among others. Also, there are a few restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, and even a small supermarket where you can purchase essentials.
Best time to visit the Amazonas
Colombia's capital typically experiences cool weather due to its high altitude, whereas the Amazon region is entirely the opposite. It remains sunny, hot, and humid year-round. The wet season runs from October to June, with February as the rainiest month. On the other hand, the dry season lasts from June to October, with July being the driest month.
Many suggest visiting Amazonia between June and October, but sometimes we can't choose our travel dates and must adapt to the situation. We traveled to this amazing region in March, right in the middle of the rainy season. Showers and rain are frequent this time, but we mostly encountered them at night. We enjoyed being surrounded by lush green vegetation, and some say that during the wet season, the chances of observing wildlife are higher than in the dry season.
To return to Leticia, you'll need to take the same boat you used to get to Puerto Nariño. The departure times are 7 AM, 10 AM, 1.30 PM, and 3.30 PM. We weren't sure where to buy tickets in Puerto Nariño, so we asked our accommodation for assistance. John, the receptionist, accompanied us to town, and by chance we encountered someone selling tickets. It was that straightforward.
Flying out of Leticia
Our next stop after Letica was Salento, where we flew with a layover in Bogotá, which took around five hours, including the stopover. And since Salento doesn't have an airport, you need to fly to Pereira first, and then take a bus or a taxi.
The airport in Leticia is quite small and located right outside town, just 2 kilometers from the center. To get there, you have the option of taking a taxi or a tuk-tuk. However, tuk-tuk drivers cannot drop you off directly at the airport, so you'll need to walk a short distance to the entrance. We encountered the same situation, and honestly, the walk was manageable, but it won't save you much.
Tip: It would have been helpful to know that there are no shops, restaurants, or cafes beyond the security check, so you won't be able to buy water or snacks. We were unaware of this and drank all our water before going through security, only to find we couldn't buy any afterwards. Try to take water with you through security or ask the staff for assistance.
SALENTO
Regardless of your itinerary or the length of your stay in Colombia, visiting Salento is a must. This picturesque little town is renowned for its delightful cuisine, exceptional coffee, and lively colonial architecture, as well as the Cocora Valley in the surrounding area.
Salento is situated within the world-famous Coffee Triangle, a region known for its high-quality coffee and lush green scenery. Due to its elevation of 1,885 meters above sea level and hilly terrain, the area experiences varied weather, with chilly, foggy mornings that turn into warm and sunny afternoons. When visiting this picturesque town, be sure to stop by a local café, enjoy a native dish at one of the charming restaurants, explore the handcrafted souvenirs, or simply soak in the peaceful atmosphere at Plaza de Bolívar.
The Cocora Valley
The main attraction in Salento, and the reason many tourists visit the area, is the Cocora Valley. As part of Los Nevados National Park, this valley is home to Colombia's national tree, the Quindío wax palm, the tallest palm in the world, which can reach 60 meters and live up to 200 years. These trees thrive at high elevations, between 2,000 and 3,000 meters, in cool, humid montane forests. The valley also hosts several bird species, including 6 to 8 species of hummingbirds, and if you're lucky, you might even spot the Andean condor.
How to get there
The easiest and most effective way to reach Cocora Valley from Salento is by taking the so-called Willys jeeps from Plaza de Bolívar. These jeeps are the most common mode of transportation in Salento and the nearby area. They operate daily to the Cocora Valley, Filandia, and several coffee farms. There's no need to book tickets in advance (though advisable if you're heading to Filandia); simply go to the main square and buy them at the ticket booth.
Tip: The first jeep to the valley leaves at 6.30 AM, so I recommend starting as early as possible.
Jeep schedules:
The ride takes about 20 minutes, and after the jeep drops you off, there's a 15-minute walk to the park entrance, where you'll pay a 25,000-peso entrance fee. We left the main square at 7.30 AM, and it turned out to be an excellent decision. It was quiet and peaceful when we took off, and the valley was empty when we arrived. It felt as if we had the entire place to ourselves.
There are several ways to hike the valley:
You can hike the trail partially, stopping at the first and/or second viewpoints, or complete the full loop and tour the entire valley. The shortest route is approximately 4.5 kilometers and takes roughly 2 hours, depending on your speed and how often you stop for photos. During this hike, you will visit two magnificent viewpoints, after which you can either turn back or continue to Finca La Montaña. If you choose to proceed, you will cover 4.5 kilometers to the top, and the same distance back down. We did this hike and thoroughly enjoyed it. In my opinion, it's worth visiting the finca. The way up is fairly steep, but the breathtaking view makes up for it. Also, you can enjoy homemade coffee or hot chocolate and relax in the beautiful garden while observing hummingbirds.
Another way to hike the valley is to do the entire loop, either clockwise or counterclockwise. This trail covers about 9 kilometers and typically takes between 5 to 7 hours. Most people suggest hiking counterclockwise, meaning you will reach the palm trees at the end, with the first half of the route being uphill. If you choose the clockwise loop, you will begin with the palm trees and then walk through the forest. The full loop, regardless of your starting point, is a very scenic trail with lush green vegetation, stunning valleys, and fresh streams. You'll also have the opportunity to visit a hummingbird house.
Since we had horseback riding scheduled for the afternoon, we couldn't do the full loop. If we had the whole day available, we would have definitely explored the entire area. If you have time, consider dedicating a full day to Cocora Valley.
The park operates from 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM, and as mentioned above, you must purchase an entrance ticket for 25,000 Colombian pesos (roughly 5.95 USD) per person. If you wish to complete the entire loop, an additional fee of 6,000 pesos (around 1.35 dollars) is required. Visiting the hummingbird reserve will cost an extra 20,000 pesos (about 4.75 dollars).
What to take with you for the hike:
Although there are a few stands along the trail where you can buy water and snacks, I suggest bringing your own water and some protein bars.
Mornings can be chilly and foggy, but once the sun is out, it can get hot and sunny, so don't forget the sunscreen. It's rare, but to be cautious, pack mosquito repellent as well. And because the weather changes quickly, if you start the hike early in the morning, wear an extra layer of clothing. This area often experiences rain, making some parts of the trail muddy. Wearing boots is strongly recommended.
Horseback riding
Horseback riding is a fantastic activity in the picturesque region of Salento. During our visit, we decided to book a 3-hour excursion with Cabalgatas Salento Tour, which ultimately exceeded our expectations and gave us an unforgettable experience. It truly felt like being in an adventure movie: we crossed several rivers multiple times, and were constantly surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty. We admired the lush green hills and the vibrant colors of wildflowers as the horses navigated through narrow paths in the dense forest. Our guide, Omar, was not only knowledgeable about the local flora and fauna but also took good care of us from the beginning to the very end of the trip. We finished the tour with a stop at a scenic viewpoint and a local finca, where we savored some delicious coffee. We genuinely enjoyed these three hours, and Omar ensured we had the best experience possible. I highly recommend choosing the Cabalgatas Salento Tour for an exceptional horseback riding adventure.
El Ocaso coffee farm tour
There are numerous coffee farms in the area providing different tours, with Finca el Ocaso among the most famous. They provide a range of tours, including a traditional one that takes you through the entire process from coffee production to roasting; a premium tour that gives a more detailed experience with tasting and cupping; a brewing coffee tour that, besides the production, focuses on the brewing methods; and a roasting tour where the main highlight is creating your own coffee.
We participated in the premium tour, which began with a walk through the plantations, where we explored different plant varieties. Following this, we learned about the growth and cultivation process, from planting the seed to brewing the coffee. This informative and interactive event allowed us to pick our own coffee beans. The experience lasted three hours and ended with a session on various brewing methods, after which everyone received a certificate. Once the tour finished, we could stay and relax at their café overlooking the lush green mountains.
Tip: bring mosquito repellent with you, though you can also purchase it at their shop.
To get to Finca El Ocaso, just buy the jeep tickets at the ticket booth in Salento's main square, where tickets for the Cocora Valley jeeps are also sold. The ride lasts about 30 minutes and is quite bumpy. The farm is nestled in a scenic location, surrounded by verdant hills and endless varieties of coffee plantations.
Discover Salento
If you have an extra day or two in the area, exploring Salento is definitely worthwhile. Wandering through the lively streets is a fantastic way to spend time. For the best photos, head out early in the morning when the streets are still quiet. Visit one of the many coffee shops to sample local coffee and delicious homemade pastries. Try one of the charming restaurants for a traditional dish, and also, many hostels offer daily lunch menus with spectacular mountain views. Additionally, you'll find numerous artisan markets where you can browse through handcrafted souvenirs and local delicacies.
Filandia
Situated outside Salento, Filandia is a popular destination for its colonial architecture and picturesque viewpoints. First, we were debating whether to visit Filandia, but since it wasn't too far and we had heard positive reviews, we decided to go. Tickets are available in Salento, at the same ticket booth used for Cocora Valley and the coffee farms. However, if you plan to take the jeeps, buy the tickets in advance because only one jeep leaves for Filandia every hour, and they fill up fast.
Here's the schedule of the jeeps to/from Filandia:
A genuine review of Filandia:
Eager to visit another enchanting town, our first stop was a lookout point, only to be disappointed by the large crowds. No matter where we went, everything was packed, and the viewpoints had long lines. The streets were filled with souvenir shops and restaurants, all eager to draw in tourists. Although the buildings were undeniably beautiful and lively, the town seemed excessively touristy to us, with a very different atmosphere from what we experienced in Salento. We strolled the streets, grabbed a coffee, and couldn't wait to leave. Honestly, we weren't impressed. We felt we wasted the afternoon and could have used that time to explore more of Salento.
Our decision to visit this town was entirely influenced by blogs and reviews we had read beforehand. We often rely on reviews when traveling and use them to plan our itineraries. This was the first time we truly realized that everyone has their own perspective and that opinions are subjective. From that point forward, we adopted a more skeptical approach to these online articles when planning our itinerary.
Nevertheless, if Filandia is on your itinerary, I don't want my opinion to discourage you; this is just our personal experience.
MEDELLÍN
Located northwest of Colombia, the capital of the Antioquia department is the country's second-largest city. Medellín was once considered one of the most dangerous cities in the world because of crime and drug trafficking gangs. Today, the city has changed significantly. Its chaotic past, along with its vibrant atmosphere and rich culture, attracts tourists from all over the world. It has an excellent public transportation system, making it easy to navigate, especially during rush hour when the streets are jammed. Cable cars are also a common way for both locals and tourists to get around the city. Known as the city of eternal spring, Medellín enjoys mild weather year-round thanks to its location.
How to get to Medellín:
Medellín is easily accessible by air from major cities like Bogotá, Cartagena, Santa Marta, and Pereira. If you're traveling from Salento and looking for a cheaper alternative, direct buses run four times a day. Tickets to Medellín cost 83,000 pesos each (about 22 US dollars), which is a great deal, in my opinion. It's recommended to purchase your ticket in advance at the main bus terminal (Terminal de Buses de Salento), located on the outskirts of Salento. Be prepared for a long, winding journey, and if you tend to experience motion sickness, consider taking a remedy before the ride. Try to arrive 30 minutes early, even though the buses are rarely punctual. The ride typically takes around 6 hours, but delays are common. For instance, we broke down on the road, adding an hour and a half to our travel time while waiting for repairs. Also, some buses can be very uncomfortable for such a long trip. We couldn't wait to get to Medellín.
El Poblado district
Walking through the streets of Medellín's safest and most classy neighborhood, known for its modern business, entertainment, and residential area, is a must. It's the center of the city's nightlife, with numerous elegant restaurants, bars, and hotels. As you explore the area, you can admire some of the most spectacular murals adorning the towering buildings.
Pablo Escobar tour
Some might question the morality of taking a Pablo Escobar tour, and honestly, we were debating it too. But regardless of the answer, given the fact that it might be our only opportunity to visit Medellín, we might as well do the tour. Not to mention that this is the only way to get more insight into that period and see the sights connected to Escobar.
We booked this tour on GetYourGuide (though it's offered at local travel agencies) and had no idea what to expect and how we would feel about the entire experience.
Who was Pablo Escobar?
Escobar, who began with small-time smuggling, became one of the world's biggest drug lords by the end of the 1980s. At his peak, he had an annual revenue of two billion dollars and controlled 80% of the cocaine production in the United States. His name became known to the world not only for this, but because his hands reached everywhere. More than 4000 killings are linked to his name today, and the list is probably even longer. Despite his cruelty, he cared deeply about the poor and invested his fortune to support them financially by constructing schools, housing, and sports fields.
While some people still respect Escobar, the majority of Colombians prefer not to discuss him, especially when it comes to being associated with him.
Originally, we wanted to book the tour that included the Pablo Escobar museum, but unfortunately, it wasn't available. Therefore, we chose the one covering only the most significant sites. Our main goal in selecting this tour was to visit the rooftop where he died and the cemetery where he's buried.
The tour
The meeting point was the Poblado Park, where our guide picked us up in a seven-seater car, and we headed to our first stop, Barrio Pablo Escobar in Comuna 9. There used to be a famous mural of Escobar, which was recently removed by Medellín's mayor, who has emphasized that the focus should be on the victims and heroes, rather than the perpetrators. Although we didn't see the mural, there was a small exhibition room filled with photos, newspaper articles, and letters, basically everything related to Escobar.
After taking a few pictures and listening to the presentation, we made our way to the next stop, the rooftop where Escobar died. From there, we headed to the Montesacro cemetery to visit the graves of Pablo and his family. His cousin Gustavo and Griselda Blanco, known as the Black Widow, are also buried here.
As we left the cemetery, we stopped by a minivan parked by the entrance, where a former bodyguard of Pablo was selling books and photos related to Escobar. We had the option to purchase his overpriced items, which he signed, and to take a photo with him. Is it ethical for a tourist to do that? I let everyone make that decision themselves.
The last stop of the tour was the Inflexion Memorial Park, located on the site of a now-demolished building where Escobar and his family once lived (the Monaco building). The memorial honors the victims of violence in Medellín. The walls display a timeline marked with the dates of bombings and massacres that happened between 1984 and 1993. The tour ended here, and honestly, we had mixed feelings. While our guide provided extensive details about the history, it's difficult to grasp the level of pain and violence Escobar caused. Nevertheless, I believe the tour is worth it for those interested in his story.
The Pablo Escobar museum
Once the tour ended, we were debating whether to visit the Pablo Escobar museum. Our guide helped us decide by mentioning that Medellín has three Escobar museums, which made us question the authenticity of the items showcased. Considering this and after checking the entrance fees, we chose to skip the museum and do something more enjoyable instead. However, if you're keen on visiting one of these museums, consider Casa Roberto Escobar Gaviria, where, if you're lucky, you might even meet Pablo's brother, Roberto.
Botanical garden
Spending an afternoon at the botanical garden was one of our favorite activities, rather than visiting the Escobar museum. The entire park covers 13 hectares and is home to a thousand plant species and hundreds of animals, including birds, iguanas, and turtles. It includes several areas such as a palm garden, a medicinal garden, a tropical forest, a cactus garden, and even a butterfly house (which we did not visit). In the center, there's a large pond where you can see fish and turtles swimming. There's also a small café where you can relax, enjoy stunning views, and watch colorful birds fly by. Admission is free, but you must have your passport or a copy. The garden is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM, and is closed on Mondays.
Comuna 13
In the 1980s and 1990s, Medellín was considered one of the most dangerous cities in the world, with Comuna 13 being its most unsafe neighborhood. It endured years of violence and struggles due to drug wars and military operations. In the 2000s, to improve residents' living conditions, the government began implementing development and community projects, including the construction of new housing, infrastructure improvements, and investments in education and youth programs. Today, the area is known for its graffiti, street performances, lively colors, and friendly atmosphere. Due to its location on the mountainside, a cable car system was introduced in 2004 as a mode of transportation, along with escalators within the neighborhood, making it easier for residents to move up and down the hilly terrain.
The Comuna 13 tour was the best one we did in Medellín. We learned about the history of the district and Medellín, and how Comuna 13 transformed from a violent past into a vibrant community. The tour began at the Poblado subway station. After a quick metro ride, we took the cable car, then a local bus to reach the Graffiti neighborhood, where the walking began. We saw numerous murals illustrating Comuna 13's past, hopes for the future, and its incredible transformation. We took the escalators to reach the top, where we admired the stunning art scene. Along the way, we encountered several hip-hop groups and freestyle rappers, and even visited a neon house that was truly astonishing. We concluded the tour at a bar on the top, where we grabbed a drink while taking in the neighborhood's view. The tour cost 12.60 dollars per person and was well worth it. You can book it through GetYourGuide (as we did) or other platforms, where you can explore various combined ticket options.
Guatapé
A popular day trip from Medellín is the Guatapé tour, featuring the town of Guatapé and the 200-meter-high Piedra del Peñol as main attractions. We booked this tour through a local agency called Maxitours for 109,000 pesos (about 30 dollars). Most agencies offer this tour with similar activities and compatibles prices, and it's also available on GetYourGuide. Our excursion included transportation, breakfast and lunch, a boat trip, and visits to Guatapé and the rock of El Peñol. However, there's an additional cost of 30,000 pesos for climbing the mountain. At the end of the trip, we visited a safari park with alpacas, lamas, and goats, where we even had the opportunity to feed these adorable furry creatures.
Both breakfast and lunch were mediocre at a local eatery that catered to tourist groups. The boat trip was average; we sailed through the reservoir, and the only interesting sight was the ruins of Pablo Escobar's former estate, Hacienda Nápoles. From there, we headed to the town of Guatapé, where we had an hour to spend. The town is indeed beautiful, with its narrow streets, charming coffee shops, and colorful buildings decorated with tile facades. As lovely as it is, I must say, it is very touristy. Additionally, we didn't have much time to explore, as our tour was on a tight schedule. Sadly, the whole experience lost its charm. After visiting the town, we continued to the giant rock, El Peñol, where we had to climb over 700 steps to reach the top. It took us about 20 minutes to get up, and the view definitely made up for our efforts. Besides the spectacular scenery, there are a few souvenir shops and cafeterias at the top where visitors can relax and admire the landscape. Around 5 PM, we reached the last stop, which was truly the highlight of the entire day. It was both fun and hilarious to feed these adorable animals.
Was it worth it?
Our primary goal was to visit El Peñol, and we weren't particularly interested in the other activities. Nevertheless, given the tour's price, the variety of programs, and everything included, it's certainly a good value. But be aware that you'll likely spend more time on the bus than exploring the different stops. And while we enjoyed some activities, we felt rushed throughout the day and didn't have enough time to spend at each location. In addition, most places were touristy, crowded, and expensive. Although the town was beautiful, the view from the rock was stunning, and we had a lot of fun at the alpaca farm, overall, it wasn't what we expected. Perhaps with fewer activities and more time for each, the tour would have been more enjoyable and meaningful.
Pueblito Paisa
Situated on top of Nutibara Hill, Pueblito Paisa is a replica of a traditional Antioquian village from the early 1900s. It's an excellent way to spend an afternoon strolling through this delightful town, with its cobblestone streets, colonial-style houses, and a white church, all of which showcase the region's cultural heritage. There's also a viewpoint offering great sights of the city. You will find several souvenir shops, restaurants, and a small park where local bands play.
After spending five days in Medellín, we were ready to head to our next destination, Santa Marta. Since the distance between Medellín and Santa Marta is over 800 km, flying is the most convenient way to get there. Medellín's international airport, José María Córdova International Airport, is located in Rionegro, approximately 20 kilometers from the city. Keep in mind that it takes about an hour to reach the airport when scheduling your ride.
SANTA MARTA
Colombia's oldest surviving city (and the second-oldest in South America), Santa Marta, is a port city on the Caribbean coast. It's famous not only for the Lost City Trek but also for Tayrona National Park, one of Colombia's most visited national parks.
At first, we added Santa Marta to our itinerary for the Lost City Trek, a four-day jungle hike. Our plan was to stay in Santa Marta for 7 days, allowing enough time for the tour and to explore nearby areas. Although we had booked our accommodation and flight, we hesitated to reserve the tour. As we kept delaying it, we decided it might be better to wait until we arrived in Colombia.
The Lost City Trek and the reason we didn't do it
The Lost City, or Ciudad Perdida, is an archaeological site of an ancient city located in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, an isolated mountain range in northern Colombia. The trek covers 44 kilometers and can be completed in 4, 5, or 6 days, depending on your pace and how much time you want to spend in nature. Access to the Lost City is only possible through authorized tours, which must be booked in advance due to visitor limitations for environmental reasons. Visitors typically hike for about 8 hours daily through dense forests with steep terrain. During the journey, they will cross rivers, swim in waterfalls, observe birds, and meet local indigenous communities. Round-trip transfer, meals, accommodation, entrance to the archeological park, and a travel guide are included in the tour. Accommodation consists of shared rooms and bathrooms at campsites. The price ranges between 400 and 600 US dollars, depending on the agency you select and the length of the hike.
As exciting as it sounds, after experiencing some challenging times in the jungle, we agreed to cancel the Lost City Trek. Even though we were eager to do it, we trusted our instincts and chose to let it go. Instead, we extended our stay in Medellín (originally planned for three days) and shortened our visit to Santa Marta, yet still had enough time to thoroughly explore the area. Needless to say, this required canceling and rescheduling a few accommodations, and we also had to rebook a flight, but we felt a great sense of relief after making this decision. In addition, we met several travelers who had a negative experience with the Lost City Trek, particularly with the accommodation, where they had to sleep in hammocks as there were not enough beds.
I believe the tour would be an incredible experience for adventure seekers and a wonderful chance to connect with nature. However, we weren't disappointed about not participating, as we discovered other fantastic opportunities.
Tayrona National Park
The 37,000-acre protected area is well-known for its lush rainforests, white-sand beaches, and crystal-clear waters. The park boasts remarkable biodiversity, featuring over 700 plant species, including palms, orchids, and mangroves, as well as more than 60 mammal species, such as monkeys, sloths, jaguars, armadillos, deer, and anteaters. Furthermore, Tayrona is a paradise for birdwatchers, with over 300 bird species, including coastal and mountain varieties, some of which are endemic to the area. The park also hosts several reptiles, such as lizards, iguanas, frogs, and snakes. Finally, the diversity of marine life is extraordinary, featuring sea turtles, rays, algae, and corals, among others.
How to get to Tayrona from Santa Marta
Besides taking a taxi or an Uber to the park entrance, the bus is also an excellent option. Head to the local market as early as possible; this is where you will buy the tickets and take the bus. Just tell them that you want to go to Tayrona and specify the entrance name. The driver announces the stops, so you'll know when to get off.
How many days should you spend there?
It's generally recommended to spend at least 2 days in the park, allowing you to fully explore the area without rushing through the trails. However, not everyone has that amount of time for Tayrona, but it's possible to visit the most popular sights in a single day. That's precisely what we did.
Choosing the entrance
The park has four entrances, with El Zaino as the main and Calabazo as the secondary. If you enter through El Zaino, there's a 10-minute bus ride to the starting point of the hike. It takes just over an hour to reach the first beach, Playa Arrecifes, and an additional 40 minutes to Cabo San Juan. You'll pass several beaches along the way. This trail is moderately challenging with some ups and downs. Since this route is easier and the entrance is more popular than Calabazo, expect longer lines and larger crowds.
If you take the Calabazo entrance, you have a few options: you can hike directly to Cabo San Juan, which takes around 2 hours, or take the trail to Playa Brava first, where you can spend the night (it's highly advised to book accommodation in advance). From Playa Brava, you can continue to Cabo San Juan, which is an additional 3-hour hike. Note that if you choose the second option, you won't have enough time to fully enjoy the beaches. Also, this trail is more difficult, with some long inclines, so you need to be relatively fit to complete this hike.
Our experience in Tayrona
When planning this trip, we weren't entirely sure how we would visit the park, which trails we would take, or how long we would stay, so we didn't book any accommodation in advance. During our journey, we met quite a few people who recommended spending the night in Tayrona, particularly at Playa Brava. We tried to reserve a bungalow for a night at Ecolodge Playa Brava Teyumakke, but it was fully booked. We took this as a sign and agreed to only visit Tayrona for the day instead. Trusting our instincts once again proved to be a great decision. We took the Calabazo entrance and arrived as early as 8.30 AM. From this point, you can take a motorbike up to the trek's starting point (walking from the entrance is also possible, but the route isn't very interesting and involves a lot of elevation). We reached our first stop, Playa Brava, in about an hour and a half. The hike is moderate with minimal inclines through the dense jungle. Although we were excited to see Playa Brava, it didn't quite impress us. It was beautiful but not what we expected. Additionally, due to the strong current, swimming is prohibited.
At the end of this trail, you'll find the Ecolodge reception desk, where you can purchase snacks and beverages, and use the hotel's Wifi. We paused here to catch our breath and have a snack before continuing to Cabo San Juan. This part of the hike was the most challenging, with continuous elevations and steep, slippery descents. Nevertheless, the route was somewhat scenic, and we even spotted several monkeys. From the halfway point, the path became smooth and flat, making the hike significantly easier and more enjoyable. Ultimately, it took us about 3 hours to get to Cabo San Juan from Playa Brava. Cabo San Juan is a stunning beach in Tayrona, surrounded by white sand and volcanic rocks. In the area, there is a restaurant, a small stall offering beach accessories, and a campsite for those who want to stay overnight. However, apart from relaxing on the beach, there isn't much else to do. The current is quite strong here as well, yet many people were in the water.
By the time we arrived in Cabo San Juan after the long hike, we were completely exhausted, so we agreed to take the speedboat back to Santa Marta. We had a quick lunch, purchased tickets, and enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere before leaving. The boat departed at 4.00 P.M., and the tickets cost 85.000 per person (quite pricey). The ride lasted 1.5 hours, and it was a nightmare. The large waves were tossing the boat around, and by the time we reached Santa Marta, we were soaking wet. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Consider walking back to the other entrance, El Zanio, instead, and only choose the boat if it's absolutely necessary. The only advantage was that we were dropped off at the port of Santa Marta, so we didn't need to take a bus or taxi. Note that if you walk to the El Zaino entrance, you'll need to arrange transportation back to Santa Marta (or to your accommodation). Also, if you choose to take the boat, consider taking a motion sickness pill.
What to pack for the hike
sunscreen
bathing suit
comfortable shoes/hiking boots
mosquito repellent
band aids, pain reliever
motion sickness pill (in case you're taking the boat)
water, snacks, protein bars
power bank
sufficient cash for the day
overnight kit if you spend the night in Tayrona
Entrance fees and opening hours
Tayrona National Park is normally open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with the last entry at 4:00 PM for El Zaíno entrance and 2:00 PM for the Calabazo entrance. The entrance fee for foreigners is 92,000 Colombian pesos during the high season and 77,500 pesos during the low season, plus a mandatory insurance fee of 6,000 pesos. The high season at Tayrona usually spans from December to January and June to July, aligning with some Colombian holidays. The low season covers the rest of the year, especially months like March, when there are fewer visitors. If you enter the park through Calabazo and take a motorbike to the starting point, expect to pay 27,000 pesos for the ride.
Cacao farm
A really interesting excursion from Santa Marta is the Cacao experience tour, which includes a short hike through the rainforest and a visit to a waterwall. This tour actually takes place in Minca, about a 30-minute drive from Santa Marta. As transportation wasn't included, we took a bus from Santa Marta (departing from the same market as the bus for Tayrona). It was more of a minivan than a bus, with tight, uncomfortable seats, and the trip was pretty inconvenient with winding roads ahead of us (you'll probably need motion sickness pills).
The tour began with a leisurely walk through the forest towards the cacao plantation. Upon arriving at the farm, the host (who is also the owner) gave us a presentation while we enjoyed cocoa and coffee, along with their delicious, homemade cinnamon rolls. After the presentation, we visited their cacao and coffee plantation located behind their house. The host introduced us to other various plants they grow, such as sugarcane and bananas, and we even saw large tangerine trees loaded with fruit.
We then learned about the cacao processing journey, from cultivating the soil until the cacao reaches the cup. It was a fascinating tour; we enjoyed every moment, especially since it was our first experience seeing or handling cacao beans and visiting a cacao plantation. At the end, there was an opportunity to buy coffee, cocoa, and their incredibly delicious cinnamon rolls. It was more than just purchasing local organic products; it was about supporting the family, which we were thrilled to do. From the farm, we returned to Minca, with a brief stop at a waterfall where we could even take a dip. It was an outstanding tour with an excellent host and guide, and I absolutely recommend it.
Exploring Santa Marta
Discover the vibrant graffiti scene, savor a delightful dinner at a local restaurant, watch the sunset at the harbor, visit the stunning Cathedral Basílica de Santa Marta in the city center, or simply wander the streets and soak in the energy of this lively city. There are numerous tours available in Santa Marta and its surroundings, including city tours, sailboat trips, beach gateways, and jungle hikes.
Minca or Santa Marta?
While planning our itinerary, we were considering staying either in Minca or in Santa Marta. While Santa Marta offers easier access to Tayrona and plenty to see, Minca is a peaceful mountain town surrounded by rainforest and waterfalls. It was a difficult decision, as we read many positive reviews about Minca. However, not wanting a repeat of our experience in the Amazonas (ending up in an isolated place), we agreed on Santa Marta. Also, for our planned Lost City Trek (which we later canceled), it seemed a more convenient base. Eventually, it turned out to be a great decision, and we had an amazing time in Santa Marta.
PALOMINO
Palomino is a small town on Colombia's Caribbean coast, in the La Guajira department. Due to its location in the southern Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the landscape offers a stunning combination of lush mountains and the Caribbean Sea. The long beaches, along with the Palomino, San Salvador, and Don Diego rivers, offer excellent opportunities for ecotourism, including river tubing, hiking, paddleboarding, and surfing. Known for its chill vibes and laid-back atmosphere, the town is a backpacker paradise. Palomino is quite small, featuring a few restaurants, stalls, and souvenir shops. Since Palomino has no airport, you first have to fly into one of the closest airports located in Santa Marta or Riohacha. From there, you can take a bus (departing from the same local market in Santa Marta) and request to be dropped off at the Palomino stop on the main road. Once you get off the bus, you'll find several tuk-tuks available to take you to your accommodation.
We spent two nights in Palomino, and honestly, we were somewhat disappointed. We had read several positive reviews and met many travelers who spoke about Palomino as a must-visit destination. If you're seeking a tranquil place to unwind, practice surfing, or simply enjoy the surroundings, this place is for you. However, we felt like it was a bit too peaceful. To add some excitement to our stay, we booked a river tubing excursion. At first, it was exciting and fun, but after floating down the Palomino River for over an hour and getting completely sunburned, the activity felt more like a burden than an enjoyable experience. Nevertheless, if you're a nature lover and appreciate a peaceful environment, don't hesitate to try this tour. I believe that, because of those reviews, we were overexcited to be there, which led to our disappointment when we discovered how tiny the place was and how limited our options were.
CARTAGENA
Cartagena is a port city located on Colombia's northern Caribbean coast. It was founded by the Spanish in 1533 and rapidly became a crucial port for the Spanish Empire, facilitating the transport of gold and silver from South America to Spain. Due to its strategic importance, Cartagena became a constant target for pirates, which led to fortification measures. After declaring independence from Spain in 1811, Cartagena played a critical role in the wars of independence, was recaptured by Spain again, and ultimately gained freedom for good.
Today, the city is renowned for its beautifully preserved colonial architecture, scenic beaches, and lively atmosphere. It is rich in cultural heritage, combining Spanish, African, and indigenous influences. Among the top attractions are the Walled City, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, and the vibrant Getsemaní neighborhood.
How to get there
You can get to Cartagena by either flying or taking a long-distance bus.
After our stay in Palomino, we first returned to Santa Marta before catching a bus to Cartagena. The bus journey usually takes about 5 hours, but expect delays due to unexpected events like roadworks and random stops along the way. If you're traveling from Santa Marta, you'll need to go to the main bus terminal (Terminal de Transporte), where several bus companies offer rides to Cartagena almost every hour. You can purchase your ticket at the ticket counter, but you'll also find representatives from different bus companies selling them. Both options are valid. Once you arrive at the Cartagena Bus Terminal, you can choose to grab a taxi or Uber to your accommodation.
Walking tour
If you want to learn about Cartagena's history and explore the historic center by visiting key sites, you can't miss the walking tour. The highlights include the Clock Tower, Plaza de la Aduana, San Pedro Claver's church in Historic Cartagena, and colorful streets with local art in the Getsemaní neighborhood. Our guide was very informative; we learned about the history of enslavement, pirates, battles, independence, and more. The tour is definitely worth signing up for, either the free walking tour or one you book through an online platform. We booked ours on GetYourGuide, and the two tickets cost us about 23 dollars.
Catamaran sunset cruise
Cartagena offers numerous boat trips, sailings, and island excursions, and while they all seem enjoyable, we decided on a catamaran sunset cruise. These activities are accessible online and through local vendors (we arranged it locally). The sailing was a 90-minute journey on a beautiful catamaran to watch the sunset over the bay. It was absolutely breathtaking with the backdrop of the Cartagena skyline. Our package included an open bar for selected drinks and snacks, and the trip featured entertainment with music and dancing. Initially, it was very cloudy, and we thought we might miss the sunset, but it turned out to be a wonderful evening and our favorite activity in Cartagena. If you are taking any boat trips, ensure you arrive at the port on time. Most boats depart from Muelle de la Bodeguita pier.
Discover Cartagena on your own
Cartagena is a stunning, vibrant city that's worth exploring independently, in addition to taking the walking tour. The distinctive architecture, cozy squares, and narrow streets bring you right back to colonial times. Besides discovering the Old City (also known as the Walled City), be sure to visit the Getsemaní neighborhood, located next to the Old Town. It's renowned for its artistic atmosphere, featuring streets decorated with colorful umbrellas, beautiful murals, and lively nightlife. Although Cartagena is generally safe for tourists (just like the other places we've visited during this trip), it's advisable to understand local conditions and take basic precautions, such as keeping an eye on personal valuables, avoiding risky areas, especially at night, and using reliable taxis. On the streets, you'll encounter many vendors trying to sell their goods, often somewhat persistently. Be mindful of them, agree on prices beforehand, and if you choose not to buy, be firm yet polite.
Cartagena day trip
You have the option to take a day trip or spend the night on several islands near Cartagena, such as the Rosario Islands, Tierra Bomba, and Barú. Choices include party boats and private beach club day passes. Since we were short on time for day trips in Cartagena (and we're not particularly fond of beaches), we chose to skip this activity and focused on fully exploring the city instead.
Tips:
Euros or US dollars
The official currency in Colombia is the Colombian peso. If you have euros or dollars, it is strongly recommended to exchange them for pesos. Both currencies can be exchanged, but since the euro is generally stronger than the dollar, you'll likely get better rates with the euro. It's best to exchange your money in larger cities before traveling to the countryside, as exchange rates may be less favorable there. Also, be careful when exchanging large sums and avoid carrying a large amount of cash.
Cash or credit cards
While credit cards are widely accepted at hotels, convenience stores, restaurants, and bars, cash is crucial in rural areas and for small purchases, such as at local markets. During our trip, we preferred cash and used credit cards only when it was absolutely necessary.
Altitude
Bogotá, like other destinations in Colombia, including Medellín and Salento, is situated at a high altitude, and while some individuals may not experience altitude sickness, it's important to recognize its symptoms and know how to handle them. These may include shortness of breath, headache, nausea, and confusion. To prevent altitude sickness, try to ascend gradually if possible, stay well-hydrated, and avoid alcohol.
Know basic Spanish
Although English is common in larger cities like Bogotá and Medellín, knowing some Spanish, particularly in rural regions, will enrich your experience and show respect to the locals. If you don't speak Spanish, a translator app can also be helpful.
Yellow fever vaccine and malaria pills if visiting the Amazonas
The yellow fever vaccine is advised and, in some cases, required for travel to South and Central America, with varying requirements depending on the specific country or region. While there are no mandatory vaccines for entering Colombia, if you plan to visit the Amazon region or the jungle areas of the Caribbean coast, you will need to be vaccinated. We had already been vaccinated due to previous travel (and it provides lifelong protection), but we were unsure whether a vaccination card would be required upon arrival at certain destinations. We learned that it might be requested, though we did not encounter any such situation during our trip.
In addition, given the significant risk of malaria in the Amazon, it is highly advised to take malaria pills. To get a prescription, consult a doctor or visit a vaccination center before the trip. For effective protection, it's crucial to take the pills before, during, and after your journey. We obtained our malaria pills at a vaccination center, where we received a detailed explanation of the proper timing and method for taking them.
Uber or yellow taxi?
There are numerous blogs and reviews about using Uber in Colombia, and, truth be told, we were initially skeptical. We tried both local taxis and Uber, as well as some public transportation in Medellín, and found Uber to be the safest choice. The app offers safety features, lets you check the driver's details and license plate, and once you book a ride, you can also share your trip details with a friend or family member. Since Uber is not officially legal in Colombia, drivers might ask you to sit in the front seat, and they won't be able to use official parking spaces to avoid conflicts with local taxi drivers. We also learned from locals that hailing a yellow taxi, especially at night, can be risky. In areas where Uber isn't available, try to book an official taxi through an app or have your hotel arrange one for you.
Which domestic airline to book
While arranging domestic flights, I compared the two major airlines operating within the country based on prices, services, and reviews. While Avianca offers cheaper flights, its customer service appears quite poor. To avoid the risk of missing an excursion or disrupting our itinerary due to a delayed or canceled flight, we opted for Latam, which seemed more reliable, and it certainly lived up to our expectations.
Safety measures:
Avoid carrying large amounts of cash and refrain from wearing or displaying expensive jewelry or valuables, such as phones or cameras.
Be aware of your surroundings, particularly in crowded areas, and avoid walking alone at night.
Carry a copy of your passport with you at all times.
Choose safe transportation options, such as app-based taxis or those recommended by your hotel, and avoid hailing street taxis.
Even though some claim tap water is safe to drink in cities like Bogotá and Medellín, it's better to stick to bottled water. Moreover, be cautious with raw or undercooked food, especially when buying street food.
When purchasing items from street vendors, make sure to agree on the price in advance.
Travel and/or medical insurance is recommended.
Ensure you have your yellow fever vaccine form if you're visiting the Amazon.
What we would have done differently:
Being our first time in the country, we ran into a few challenges along the way. If you're planning a trip and feel unsure about your itinerary or whether certain destinations are worth visiting, this section is for you. Even with all our planning, we still had doubts about some activities, but we trusted our instincts and adjusted the schedule as we went.
The first lesson we should have learned by now is to avoid booking an eco hotel. We've stayed in the jungle during our travels in Mexico, and while we love nature, we also value comfort. In the end, we simply prefer a proper hotel.
The second thing we could change is skipping the beach destinations. We're not beach lovers - never have been - so we're still not sure why we booked two nights in Palomino. It's a mistake we probably won't repeat. Those two nights could have been spent at places we genuinely enjoyed, like Salento or Cartagena.
We had three days in Salento, which was enough to see the main attractions, but with a little more time, we could have completed the full loop in the Cocora Valley without rushing. If your schedule allows, set aside an entire day for the valley. We also debated visiting Jardín, a beautiful colonial town about five hours from Salento, or four from Medellín. With the limited time, we decided to skip it. Moreover, spending an entire afternoon in Filandia wasn't the best choice - we didn't enjoy it at all. Had we known, we would have rescheduled our plans and found a way to include Jardín. Learn from our mistakes. I don't want to discourage anyone from visiting Filandia, but Jardín seems like a better option (although it requires more planning because of its distance from Salento). If you're in a dilemma, I'd recommend choosing Jardín.
Besides Salento, our other favorite city was Cartagena, and we wished we had stayed longer. A couple more days would have given us time to explore more of the city and even take an island trip.
We really enjoyed hiking in Tayrona, but next time we would probably choose the easier entrance for a more relaxing day.
Most of our itinerary was influenced by blogs and online reviews - basically the opinions and experiences of other travelers. By the end of this trip, we realized we might have relied too heavily on these reviews, as some destinations didn't quite match our expectations. In the end, we learned that opinions and viewpoints are subjective and vary from person to person. Staying open-minded, flexible, and selective about which reviews to trust is just as important as planning.
Nevertheless, we enjoyed our journey and learned to adapt along the way. This trip taught us that flexibility is essential and that sometimes it's okay to let plans change. We are grateful for the opportunity to experience even a small part of this beautiful country, and we hope to return one day to explore more of what Colombia has to offer.
Comments