Exploring Southeast Asia: a 3-week journey through Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia
- annapantya
- Apr 21
- 39 min read
Southeast Asia has a ton of attractions, including white sand beaches, dense tropical jungles, vibrant culture, and authentic cuisine. Whether you seek adventure, a relaxing vacation, or a cultural experience, the region won't disappoint.
My sister and I had 3 weeks to travel and decided to spend this time in Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. In this blog, I'll share our three-week itinerary that you can ideally follow if you choose to visit some of these places. However, if you have more time, it's definitely worth extending your stay. Our initial plan was to explore Vietnam, but we also agreed to visit Angkor in Cambodia and discover the untouched beauty of Laos while in the region.
Truth be told, these destinations weren't my top choices, so I wasn't overly excited about the trip, but we ended up having a fantastic time and great adventures.
Our itinerary
Day 9 Ho Chi Minh - Siem Reap (Cambodia)
Day 15-18 Luang Prabang (Laos)
Before embarking on a trip like this, one must take into account several factors. First, the distances within the countries can be extensive, so you need to decide whether to fly between cities/countries to save time. If you're on a budget or have plenty of time, you can take the bus, but remember that these journeys might last 8-10 hours, if not longer. If you opt for flying, thorough planning is essential to secure good deals. Additionally, while several Southeast Asian countries allow you to get a visa on arrival (except for Vietnam in our case), having them in advance is highly recommended. E-visas can be obtained online through the official websites of the respective embassies.
Here's our 3-week itinerary:
Budapest to Hanoi
We debated between two airlines, Emirates and Qatar, and ultimately chose Qatar because of their more appealing offer. Trusting our initial instincts once more proved to be the wisest decision, as a massive storm in Dubai led to numerous delays and cancellations on our travel day. If we had booked with Emirates, we likely would have missed our connecting flight, causing disruptions to our travel plans. Luck favored us once again.
Day 1
Hanoi, Vietnam
Located in Southeast Asia, Vietnam is famous for its rich culture, eventful past, and gorgeous scenery. It is bordered by China, Laos, and Cambodia to the north and west, while the South China Sea lies to the east. Vietnam's history is marked by periods of Chinese influence, French colonization, and a war with the United States in the 20th century, which led to the country's reunification in 1975. Today, it's a rapidly developing nation that blends traditional and modern elements. The country is well-known for its cuisine, featuring dishes like pho (noodle soup), banh mi sandwich, and spring rolls. Its diverse landscape includes lush jungles, stunning beaches, and iconic sites like Ha Long Bay and the Mekong Delta.
Hanoi
Hanoi, Vietnam's capital, is one of the most vibrant cities in the country and is known for its centuries-old architecture, tree-lined boulevards, and a blend of French colonial and traditional Vietnamese elements. The Old Quarter features narrow streets with lively markets, food vendors, and various shops. Numerous historical and natural landmarks, such as Hoan Kiem Lake, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the Tran Quoc Pagoda, and the Huc Bridge, are worth exploring.
Upon arriving in Hanoi, purchasing a local SIM and exchanging money before exiting the airport is advisable. The exchange rates are reasonable, although you can find better deals in the city. Nevertheless, having a small amount of cash with you is wise.
Hanoi is a large city, and the journey from the airport to the city center takes around an hour. Taxis are accessible at the arrivals terminal, but you also have the option to use the application Grab, which operates effectively in both Vietnam and Cambodia and works similarly to Uber.
I'm sure everyone has heard about the chaotic traffic in Vietnam, particularly in Hanoi. That is correct. Scooters, motorbikes, and different slow-moving vehicles come from all directions, so you must stay alert and choose your crossing points wisely. Although the major intersections have traffic lights and pedestrian crossings, most drivers disregard them and run red lights without hesitation. You might not be ready for this traffic culture, but you can adapt and skillfully navigate the streets with time. Moreover, besides the hectic traffic, other local customs might seem unfamiliar, such as preparing meals and dining outdoors on the sidewalk. It's common for locals to share meals with families and neighbors, a daily habit that brings communities together. However, this practice can make it challenging to walk along the sidewalks.
Things to do:
Old Quarter
Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum
Hanoi Opera House
St. Joseph's Cathedral
Train street
Hoan Kiem Lake
Huc Bridge (Red Bridge)
Sample the famous Banh Mi sandwich and Vietnamese coffee.
Discover the numerous temples and churches, browse the local markets, visit the charming coffee shops, and indulge in street food.
Most attractions in Hanoi are spread out, requiring a lot of walking, which can be challenging due to the heat and traffic. The most convenient way to visit these landmarks is by taking a taxi or the so-called bicitaxi. You'll encounter several locals offering bicycle rides around the Old Quarter. Feel free to negotiate the price and choose the number of attractions you wish to see.
Initially hesitant, we eventually accepted a ride from a gentleman and discovered it to be a quick and efficient way to visit all the places we planned to see.
In Hanoi, the famous banh mi sandwich is a must-try; a simple yet delicious dish that has become one of my top picks. Introduced by the French, this crispy baguette is typically filled with pork, pate, vegetables, and mayonnaise. Our guide took us to the Hoan Kiem District, where we sampled a couple of banh mis. Delish.
Vietnam is the second-largest coffee producer and is well-known for its unique coffee varieties. Make sure to try their egg, coconut, or salt coffee. It's always a great idea to stop by a charming coffee shop where you can unwind and savor the country's specialty coffees while watching the world go by. It was one of our favorite activities when we wanted to take a break during a busy day.
Exploring the vibrant local markets is another enjoyable program. There's a wide variety of goods, from clothing and kitchen appliances to local snacks, souvenirs, jewelry, handcrafted items, you name it. We have always enjoyed visiting these markets and negotiating prices.
Several day trips are available in Hanoi, with Halong Bay being one of the most popular destinations. It's a highly rated and recommended excursion that allows you to spend one or two nights on a ship in Ha Long Bay, based on your preference. We opted for the two-night cruise and found it the highlight of our vacation.
Day 2-4
Ha Long Bay
Situated in the northern part of the country, Ha Long Bay is renowned for its nearly 2000 limestone islands that emerge dramatically from the emerald-green waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. These limestone rock formations are often covered in lush greenery, creating a surreal and breathtaking scene. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Ha Long Bay is a popular destination for tourists and locals.
Many cruise lines offer one- or two-night packages on Ha Long Bay, featuring similar programs and itineraries. In order to choose the most suitable ship, first you need to consider your budget for this trip. (Prices vary between 150 and 400 dollars per person per night, depending on the cruise line.)
While reviewing the options, we found that most lines offer comparable amenities: cabins with balconies overlooking the water, spacious bathrooms, all-inclusive meals, and various activities like squid fishing, kayaking, island excursions, and cooking classes. After comparing prices and features, we decided to book two nights with Erina Cruises. Like most cruise lines, Erina does not offer beverage packages, requiring guests to pay for drinks separately. Although this was somewhat disappointing, they did organize happy hours every evening, which helped compensate for it.
Tip: It's important to note that choosing the one-night cruise results in a brief trip with limited activities. Booking two nights will allow you a more leisurely experience, enabling you to enjoy the ship without rushing. This was the main reason we selected the longer cruise, and it was a great decision.
We used the following website when browsing for the Ha Long Bay cruise:
We selected this cruise line (Erina Cruises):
Our priority with this trip was the experience, so we set aside our budget concerns. The two-night cruise cost us 640 dollars, including transportation from Hanoi to the harbor and all onboard expenses except for drinks. Payment is typically divided into two parts: a deposit up front and the remaining balance paid at the time of service.
The bus ride from Hanoi to the harbor took approximately three hours. Upon arrival, we reached the cruise line's terminal, where payments were completed before boarding the ferry. The boat ride lasted about an hour, giving a glimpse of the scenic views that awaited us. Once we boarded the ship, the crew introduced themselves, and lunch was served as the ship sailed to Lan Ha Bay. The afternoon's first activity was kayaking, followed by a pleasant happy hour on the deck, where we admired the gorgeous sunset over the limestone rock formations. It was truly remarkable.
Dinner service began shortly after happy hour, presenting a wide range of variety dishes served buffet-style.
We weren't sure what to expect regarding the food, but it was phenomenal. Everything exceeded our expectations - the quality, the variety, the flavors. After dinner, we had the opportunity to participate in squid fishing, which was quite entertaining. To conclude the evening, a flair and fire show was performed on the deck. It was undoubtedly a busy and exciting day with loads of fun. Exhausted, we fell into bed early to get a good night's sleep and to be ready for our next adventure.
On the second day of our stay, a full-day excursion was organized for us. After breakfast, a boat took us to Cat Ba Island to visit Viet Hai Village, where we could choose to either ride an electric car or a bike to the village. During the visit, we learned about the island and the small town, sampled local drinks, explored picturesque spots, and even tried a fish spa. A traditional Vietnamese lunch was served on the boat, followed by opportunities for kayaking and swimming. The boat returned to the ship around 4 p.m. Evening activities included a fun cooking class and happy hour while admiring the spectacular sunset.
Tip: As it was mentioned before, guests must pay for beverages separately, including bottled water. However, refillable bottles are available in the rooms, and you can request refills at the front desk whenever needed.
Extra tip: If you're new to being on a ship and/or not used to the movements, having motion sickness medication could be a lifesaver.
On the third day of the cruise, before returning to Hanoi, the last activity was a short trip to the Dark and Bright Caves near Cat Ba National Park. The Dark Cave is quite deep and narrow, often submerged below sea level, and tourists cannot enter it. In contrast, the Light Cave is more extensive, making it accessible for tourists to explore. The cave leads to a peaceful lake surrounded by limestone mountain cliffs.
Locals took us on bamboo boats to discover the area. Floating on the calm water, admiring the beautiful scenery, and feeling the tranquility of nature was genuinely wonderful. Despite being cut short, this program was one of the main highlights of the cruise.
Before leaving the ship, brunch was served, and guests had to settle their bills. Afterwards, everyone bid farewell to the crew and the ship, and transportation was arranged back to Hanoi.
Tip: If your itinerary is similar to ours, with an afternoon flight departing from Hanoi, arranging private transportation to the airport is strongly advised to ensure arriving on time. (The bus ride to Hanoi Old Quarter can take up to 3 hours.)
Given its vast size and numerous urban centers, Vietnam offers a variety of itinerary options, including flights connecting Hanoi to various locations. While planning this trip, we were keen to include Hoi An in our route, and we thought that the most efficient way to get there was to fly to Da Nang and take a ride from there.
Day 5-7
Hoi An
This adorable coastal town showcases a unique blend of Vietnamese, Chinese, and Japanese architectural styles that reflect its rich cultural past. The historical buildings represent the town's long-standing heritage, attracting visitors from all over the world. Hoi An is famous for its colorful lanterns that brighten the streets after dark and create a magical atmosphere. It is surrounded by vast rice fields, which add to the picturesque beauty and provide a glimpse into this region's traditional way of life.
Attractions and excursions:
Fujian Assembly Hall
Hoi An Night Market
Hoai River boat trip by night
Basket boat ride in the coconut forest
My Son sanctuary
Marble mountain, Am Phu cave, and Monkey mountain
Ba Na Hills
One of our favorite activities in Hoi An was taking a boat ride on the Hoai River, where you can light a lantern and let it float on the water. The sight of the small boats illuminating the river is magical. Before getting on the boats, you can purchase paper lanterns to release. According to tradition, you should make a wish as you light and release your lantern. Due to the popularity of this activity, the river can become crowded, which slows down the ride. Buying tickets and boarding can also involve long lines, but this unique experience is worth the wait.
Exploring Hoi An and its surroundings by bicycle is a popular activity among tourists. Outside the town, you can encounter vast rice fields, local farms, and communities that provide a fascinating insight into the residents' daily lives and their dedication to their fields. As you cycle around, you might stumble upon delightful cafes and shops, enhancing the authentic experience of your journey. If you ride a bike to the Old Town, exercise caution due to the bustling traffic and busy streets. Wondering where to find a bicycle? In Hoi An, many accommodations offer rental bikes for a small fee or at no cost. If your hotel doesn't provide this service, you can find numerous rental shops in the historic town and its outskirts.
If you opt for a more relaxing day and wish to skip the full-day tours, take a bike ride to a nearby beach. While the water might not be crystal clear or turquoise, there are fresh food options, allowing you to pick fish and seafood to be cooked for you right there.
Strolling through downtown and discovering the night markets, with the lanterns lighting up the streets, the cozy souvenir shops, and the authentic street food, is a truly unique experience. Nevertheless, Hoi An is an extremely popular tourist spot, so anticipate the crowds that can occasionally feel overwhelming. Navigating the streets might become stressful because of the large number of people around.
A fantastic day trip option is the tour to the Marble Mountains. The one we booked included the Mountains, the Am Phu Cave, lunch at a local family's home, and the Monkey Mountain (where, unfortunately, we did not see any monkeys).
Tip: This is a full-day excursion, and the sun can be very intense, so apply sunscreen and cover up as much as possible. The cave tour is quite challenging, particularly in the dark, confined spaces where you must climb to the surface. You might want to skip this cave if you are claustrophobic or afraid of heights.
After visiting the cave, lunch is served at a local home, then the group heads to Monkey Mountain. There, you can explore a gorgeous, colorful garden and visit a Buddha temple where you can rub the Buddha's belly for good luck, happiness, and prosperity. Additionally, there's a remarkable statue of the Lady Buddha standing at an impressive height of 67 meters. This location offers an exceptional opportunity to capture stunning photographs. Sadly, we didn't see any monkeys, which was, according to our guide, due to the extreme heat, as monkeys tend to seek refuge in cooler areas.
The excursion was well worth it; however, it was exhausting, leaving us unable to do anything else for the rest of the evening. Because of that, we decided to skip the trip to My Son Temple, which we had previously planned. Instead, we had a casual bike ride and enjoyed a day at the beach.
Hoi An and its surroundings offer plenty of things to do, and with enough time in the area, you can enjoy all these excursions. We were pleased with our stay in Hoi An and felt we made the most of it. Because we were a bit pressed for time, we agreed to skip the mandatory tours and hop on a bike instead.
Day 8
Ba Na Hills
When planning this trip, we wanted to visit the Golden Bridge, so we had to include Ba Na Hills in our itinerary. Initially, we were unsure how to manage this visit, as we had an evening flight from Da Nang to Ho Chi Minh City, but with the help of our host in Hoi An, we came up with quite an efficient plan. If you have a similar travel itinerary, this might be a potential solution, allowing you to experience some of the Ba Na Hills.
How to get there
It takes about an hour from Hoi An to Ba Na Hills (and 45 minutes if you are visiting from Da Nang). Multiple cable cars operate from various ground stations to different mountain locations. The most popular line is between Hoi An and Marseille Station, which leads directly to the Golden Bridge.
Sun World Ba Na Hills, located in the Truong Son Mountains, is a vast theme park and recreational complex with numerous leisure activities. At the beginning of the 20th century, French colonists built a hill station and a resort, and Sun Group later expanded it. Located 1500 meters above sea level, it has a view of the East Sea and the surrounding mountains.
To highlight a few, the complex includes a Fantasy Park with arcades, cinemas, a roller coaster, and a drop-and-twist tower. You will also find a Wax Museum with life-size statues of several celebrities and a French village where you can feel like you just got into medieval times. The park's centerpiece is Le Jardin D'amour, which has nine stunning gardens designed in different styles with colorful flowers, statues, and fairy-tale figures. Don't miss the Linh Ung Pagoda and the giant Buddha Statue, and take on some stunning views of the hills from Vietnam's iconic Golden Bridge.
The operational hours of Ba Na Hills are from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. However, it is recommended that this information be verified in advance, as it may be subject to change during holidays and festivals.
The standard entrance fee is 900,000 Vietnamese Dong (approximately $35), which includes a round-trip cable car ticket and access to key attractions such as the Golden Bridge, Fantasy Park, Lunar Castle, and Le Jardin D'Amour Gardens. Note that this fee does not cover the restaurants, admission to the Wax Museum, games with prizes at the Fantasy Park, or accommodation.
The tickets can be purchased at the entrance, through the Ba Na Hills website, or on sites like GetYourGuide or Tripadvisor.
If you're traveling from Hoi An, your first stop will be Hoi An Ground Station. Tickets can be bought at the ticket counter if you haven't already purchased them. From there, you will take the cable car up the hill. The ride usually takes about 15 to 20 minutes, though it might feel longer for those afraid of heights. As you head higher, the journey gets more scenic, with amazing views of mountains, forests, and waterfalls. Interestingly, Line 1, the oldest line, holds two notable world records: one for the greatest elevation between its stations (over 1290 meters) and another for the longest single-track line (5 km).
Tip: If you want to avoid the crowd, arrive at the ground station as early as possible. We boarded the cable car around 10 a.m., and the Golden Bridge was already packed when we got there. It was challenging to take a decent photo or to move around without getting bumped into.
Weather in Ba Na Hills
If you visit the hills during the rainy season (October to February), bring an umbrella and/or a raincoat, and expect cooler temperatures, frequent rain, and thick fog. The climate is mostly dry from March to September, with more pleasant weather and plenty of sunshine. However, the mountains might get breezy and chilly, so carrying a light sweater is always a good idea.
Tip: Keep in mind that during the summer, Ba Na Hills attracts a high number of visitors. The excessive crowd can make this experience miserable and less enjoyable.
After spending a fair amount of time, around 1 p.m., we decided to head back down to be on time for our afternoon flight. Line 1 was shut down then, so we had to take the funicular to the next cable car station, followed by an additional line to arrive at the ground station. The journey back appeared slightly faster and less steep compared to the way up. Although we could not fully explore the entire resort, it was still a worthwhile excursion. If you have limited time but still wish to experience some of the resort's highlights, do not miss out on this opportunity.
Initially, we planned to spend two full days in Ho Chi Minh City. However, after assessing our time constraints in the other two countries and considering the logistics of reaching Siem Reap, we decided to utilize Ho Chi Minh City solely as a gateway to Cambodia. We previously agreed not to pre-book any flights from Ho Chi Minh, which allowed us to maintain flexibility in our itinerary. Ultimately, we chose to stay for only a night, bypassing the city itself, and opted to take a bus to Siem Reap.
Day 9
Ho Chi Minh to Siem Reap
Since we knew we wouldn't stay long in this city and needed a ride to Cambodia, we started the day by checking bus tickets and schedules. We bought the tickets at the first agency we found, grabbed breakfast, and still had time to pack up and prepare comfortably for the long bus ride. The tickets from Ho Chi Minh to Siem Reap cost 50 dollars per person, and we had to be back at the agency by 1 p.m. for pickup. We already had our E-visas to Cambodia; however, when applying, we needed to specify the border crossing point. Since we were uncertain about where we would cross, we chose one randomly and decided to figure it out later. Fortunately, the agency representative confirmed that the border we selected on our visas would be accepted by border control.
The bus was punctual, and shortly after 1 p.m., we headed toward the Cambodian border (Moc Bai - Bavet border). We got there in about 3 hours, then made our way to passport control. The process for those with online visas went fast, but we still had to wait for the rest who were with us on the bus. Once everyone was done, we left for the capital.
We reached Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital city, around 9 p.m. Since we were not staying, we had to wait a few hours for the connecting bus. We were exhausted and desperate to take the next ride, but were shocked when the night bus finally arrived. Not that we have problems with sleeping buses; we have used them several times when backpacking in Peru, but this was utterly different. The seats were tight and uncomfortable, and there was no option to put them upright. We had to lie down whether we wanted to or not. The air-conditioning was not working at all, making the journey a complete torture. We felt immense relief when we arrived in Siem Reap late at night.
Day 10
Siem Reap (Cambodia)
Siem Reap, located northwest of the country, serves as the entrance to the Angkor Archaeological Park, home to the iconic Angkor Wat temple. Historically, the town relied on rice production and fishing, but today, its economy is primarily centered around tourism. Most visitors travel to Siem Reap to explore the ancient ruins, but they also find the town's vibrant atmosphere with bustling markets, restaurants, and lively nightlife. Siem Reap offers cultural experiences and numerous natural attractions, such as stunning lotus fields, lush hills, and the Tonle Sap Lake with its floating villages.
How to get there
Siem Reap has an airport allowing you to fly from many neighboring countries like Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos (visas can be obtained upon arrival). If you come from Cambodia's capital, you can fly or take the five-hour bus ride.
Things to do:
Angkor tours
Floating village excursions
Lotus Farm
Night markets
Pub street
With no plans for our first day, we took a tuk-tuk downtown to exchange local currency, purchase a SIM card, and arrange excursions. We weren't set on specific tours, but visiting Angkor was a priority. After browsing through various agencies, we found one that thoroughly explained the excursions, highlighting those worth considering. They recommended two specific excursions to Angkor: a sunrise tour, which allows us to witness a magnificent sunrise at the site of Angkor Wat, and a full-day excursion featuring several temples and ruins (although it didn't include Angkor Wat), with the final stop offering a panoramic view of the sunset.
After evaluating our options, we booked two Angkor tours and one to a floating village on Tonle Sap Lake, which seemed interesting.
Siem Reap's downtown feels completely different during the day than at night. The nightlife on Pub Street is lively and bustling, with numerous restaurants, street food stalls, music, and street vendors trying to sell you all kinds of products. If you venture beyond this area and head toward the river, you'll find locals offering delicacies like snakes, worms, and tarantulas. Photos are only allowed if you make a purchase. There are more food stalls here, which are more traditional than those downtown.
The town is pretty tranquil during the day, with just a few people around. We were initially stunned by the empty streets, but we realized it could be due to the heat.
Tip: Be prepared for the intense sun and high humidity. It's recommended to rest during the peak hours and go out later in the afternoon when the temperature drops. On some days, the heat is simply unbearable.
Day 10
Kampong Phluk Floating Village
The first tour we took in Siem Reap was to the floating village. It was a half-day tour that began in the afternoon. The journey to the town lasted about 1.5 hours, with a few stops along the way. Kampong Phluk is located on Tonle Sap Lake and is known for its distinctive floating community. The water level here can change significantly, so many houses and structures are built on stilts, allowing them to adjust to the water throughout the year. This makes the village particularly fascinating to visit when the water level is high in the rainy season, turning it into a water village. However, we visited during the dry season without water, so we explored it on foot.
We visited a couple of houses and structures, a temple, and a local school during the tour. We gained insight into the daily lives of people who use the dry season to preserve food, mainly fish, and perform minor repairs around their homes. The most interesting and perhaps saddest location we visited was the school. On our way there, we purchased a few items for the children, like pencils and notebooks, which we could give them personally. The kids were thrilled to see us, jumping and running around; it was a genuinely emotional moment. The village was not the only attraction during this excursion. We were meant to see the mangrove (or flooded) forest by boat, but couldn't float through it, as it was scorched. What a bummer. So we continued the boat ride to the floating restaurant in the middle of Tonle Sap Lake, where we watched the sunset. The ride was beautiful, as was the view from the restaurant. Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed this trip, although it's more of an attraction during the rainy season than in the dry season.
The rainy season in the area lasts from May to the end of October. It is characterized by heavy rain showers, with September and October being the wettest months. The dry season spans from November to May, bringing sunny, warm, and humid weather.
Tip: Avoid taking a tuk-tuk to the floating village. The road is very dusty, especially in the dry season, and is quite bumpy as well. Visiting with a guided tour in an air-conditioned minivan is much more comfortable.
Day 11
Angkor Archaeological Park
The ancient temple complex was once the capital of the Khmer Empire. It thrived from the 9th to the 15th centuries and is renowned for its breathtaking architecture, particularly the expansive Angkor Wat temple, the largest religious monument in the world. The park spans over 400 square kilometers and features temples, palaces, reservoirs, and other structures, all complexly carved and designed with Hindu and Buddhist elements. It took the Khmer Empire approximately 30 years to construct. Angkor Wat, the most well-known of these temples, was initially dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu but later became a Buddhist Temple. Other notable structures include the Bayon Temple, famous for its stone faces, and Ta Prohm, the Tomb Raider Temple. The temples of Angkor are considered masterpieces of architecture and engineering, and the park is a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting millions of visitors every year.
How to get to Angkor
There are numerous ways to visit this ancient religious site, and regardless of your transportation choice, the place is truly captivating. Initially, we considered taking a tuk-tuk or a taxi, but after receiving more details about the excursion, we agreed to take the guided tour. If your main goal is only to see the sites and you're not a fan of history, a tuk-tuk or taxi might be adequate, but you may not receive any information about Angkor. Typically, these trips involve drivers dropping you off at each site, waiting while you explore, and then taking you to the next one. Exploring this vast area by bicycle is another option, and it may seem adventurous at first; nonetheless, it's a considerable distance from Siem Reap, plus the heat can be severe. Booking the guided tour was the best decision we have made. The agency provided an air-conditioned minibus for transportation, hotel pickup, water at each stop, and a tour guide. For a full-day excursion, having an air-conditioned bus is essential. Keep in mind that the trip still involves a lot of walking.
Where to buy tickets
To visit Angkor, you must buy a ticket, even if you have arranged a guided tour. There are three types of passes: a day pass for 37 dollars, a three-day pass for 62 dollars, and a seven-day pass for 72 dollars. The bus to Angkor stops at the main ticket office, where you can purchase these tickets. You can't enter the park without a pass; tickets will be checked at each site.
Knowing we would spend at least two days there, we opted for the three-day pass.
A day trip to Angkor Archaeological Park
On this tour, we visited seven different structures, where we could thoroughly explore the sites and even climb some of them. Among our favorites were Baksei Chamkrong, which looks a little bit like the Mexican Chichen Itza with its pyramid-shaped structure and central sanctuary rising above the surrounding area, and the Tonle Om Gate, one of the five entrances to Angkor Thom (Great City), adorned with impressive stone faces and structures.
Another notable temple is Phnom Bakheng, located on a hill near the center of the archeological park. It is considered one of the first temples built in the Angkor region and was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. This temple mountain, a typical architectural form in Khmer temple construction, symbolizes Mount Meru, the center of the universe in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology. The temple consists of a large, stepped pyramid with five tiers, with a central shrine at the top. This site is usually the final stop, offering a gorgeous sunset and a panoramic view of the park from the highest point.
Other structures we covered during this excursion:
Preah Khan Temple - a temple that showcases a fascinating mix of Hindu and Buddhist elements in its architecture and carvings.
Neak Pean - a small temple situated on an artificial island in the center of a large reservoir.
Pre Rup Temple - an impressive temple-mountain built with brick and laterite, featuring five central towers in a row, symbolizing Mount Meru.
Ta Nei - a relatively unknown temple in a quieter area, partially overgrown by trees and lianas, creating a beautiful blend of nature and architecture.
Although it may appear that the number of structures we visited wasn't enough, I must emphasize that this was a full-day tour (including a lunch break) in the extreme heat. By the end of the day, we were completely exhausted.
Tip: Remember that the tours available for booking may offer different temples, and not all include Angkor Wat. You can verify with the agency which temples are part of your excursion.
Extra tip: It's crucial to dress appropriately when visiting Angkor, as it's a religious site. You have to wear long pants or shorts that cover your knees and shirts that cover your shoulders. Skirts, shorts that don't reach your knees, and tank tops are prohibited within the temple grounds. If your clothing is too revealing, you may be denied entry. Additionally, wearing a hat under the intense sun can be pretty beneficial.
Day 12
Angkor Wat
Our second day on the sunrise tour began quite early. A significant benefit was finishing early, allowing us to avoid the heat and relax for the rest of the afternoon. We were picked up from our hotel around 4 a.m., and after gathering everyone, we proceeded to the long-awaited Angkor Wat to see the sunrise. It was still dark upon our arrival, but as we started walking around the site, the sunlight began to emerge, highlighting the magnificent structure of Angkor Wat. The park was already crowded with people searching for the best spot for sunrise photos. Our guide showed us the ideal location for the perfect images. Before the sun rose, we had time to wander around, enabling us to take photos and experience this magical site.
Witnessing the sunrise at this mystical site was a truly incredible experience. Once the sun had risen completely, we made our way into the temple. Our guide was phenomenal, providing fascinating facts and a wealth of history about this iconic structure.
The five massive towers, emerging from the topmost level, represent the five peaks of the sacred Mount Meru, which, in Hindu belief, is the center of the physical and spiritual universes. The temple's design embodies the cosmic world, with various levels representing different aspects of the universe, and the central tower symbolizes the spiritual summit.
We were captivated by the remarkable architecture and the incredibly detailed carvings that provide insight into the religious and cultural importance of the temple. We could even climb to the upper level, where steep, uneven, and narrow stairs lead, but the view of the complex made it worthwhile.
Following this extraordinary experience, our next stop was Ta Prohm Temple, one of the most captivating temples in the park, primarily because of the striking way nature and architecture have merged. It is famous for being partly overgrown with massive tree roots from two towering trees wrapped around the ruins, creating a unique atmosphere. It got global recognition after being showcased in the 2001 film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, where its surreal, overgrown look made it an ideal setting for the movie. Exploring this temple was yet another remarkable experience we had.
Next, we proceeded to Ta Keo, another temple mountain symbolizing Mount Meru. Interestingly, Ta Keo was never completed. The walls lack significant decorative sculptures or carvings, making it stand out for its plain yet impressive structure.
The final temple on this tour was the most distinctive in the park, recognized for its many towering stone faces on its central towers. Bayon Temple's main structure is a colossal pyramid with 54 towers, each displaying four faces, believed to symbolize Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of compassion, or perhaps the king himself. These tranquil and mysterious faces are a signature feature of Bayon, giving the temple its unique look.
This fantastic tour ended here, and we were grateful for the opportunity to see these majestic structures. Exhausted and drained from the heat, we gladly took the rest of the day off and headed straight to the pool to refresh ourselves.
Day 13
Siem Reap - Lotus farm
We stayed in contact with Nick, who was our guide on the first day, and since we were interested in seeing the lotus farm, he arranged a private tour for us. He picked us up in the afternoon and we drove to a lotus farm just outside Siem Reap. The farm specializes in cultivating lotus flowers and processes like weaving and producing various lotus-based products, such as lotus tea, seeds, and traditional Cambodian handcrafts made from stems and petals. These items demonstrate the versatility of the lotus in cooking, medicine, and crafts.
After visiting the farm and sampling some lotus tea, we took off to the nearby fields. Although not all the flowers bloomed, the scenery was still stunning and somewhat colorful. This brief little trip lasted a few hours, after which Nick invited us over to a friend of his. Initially hesitant about visiting strangers in a foreign country, it turned out to be a great decision. The lovely family welcomed us warmly, immediately offering food and drinks. We shared great moments with them and had a fantastic time. This evening demonstrated the kindness and friendliness of these people, proving that wealth isn't necessary to be generous.
Why we didn't visit Phnom Penh
Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh, draws millions of tourists annually with its rich history, vibrant food scene, colorful culture, and modern lifestyle. When planning our trip to Cambodia and thoroughly investigating Phnom Penh, we agreed to skip it and focus on Angkor instead. Firstly, we weren't interested in staying in another big city to see more temples, as we knew we'd do that in Siem Reap. The major attractions in the capital are the memorials honoring the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime. While we sincerely appreciate history and historical sites, visiting these monuments might have negatively impacted our travel, given the terrible events associated with these locations. Even if we missed out on something by deciding not to travel there, we were satisfied with our choice and felt no regret. If you're interested in history and not disturbed by the brutality of these horrific events, it might be a fascinating journey for you.
What happened during the Khmer Rouge regime?
If you're uncertain about visiting the memorial related to the Khmer Rouge regime, here's a brief history of it.
The Khmer Rouge regime refers to the era of the Communist Party of Kampuchea (known as the Khmer Rouge), which governed Cambodia from 1975 to 1979. Led by Pol Pot, this government sought to establish a radical agrarian society by promoting a solely rural and self-sufficient economy while eliminating all recognized as enemies of the regime, including intellectuals, professionals, and anyone linked to the former government. The Khmer Rouge took control over Cambodia years after the civil war, initially promising to bring peace and prosperity to the nation. They implemented extreme policies to wipe out urban life, religion, and Western influences, forcing millions from cities into rural areas to work in agriculture. Education, healthcare, and social services were dismantled.
Under the regime, an estimated 1.5 to 2 million people (a quarter of the population) perished due to starvation, forced labor, torture, and executions. The killing fields in Phnom Penh are locations where over 1.3 million people were collectively killed and buried. Another significant site is Tuol Sleng, or S-21, a former school transformed into a prison and interrogation center where thousands were tortured and executed.
The regime ended in January 1979 when the Vietnamese army invaded Cambodia and defeated the Khmer Rouge.
Siem Reap to Luang Prabang
The quickest and most convenient way to get from Siem Reap to Luang Prabang is by plane, which takes roughly an hour. The flight provides stunning views of Laos's hills and winding rivers.
Upon landing at Luang Prabang airport, we were amazed by the beautiful, lush mountains surrounding us. After a swift passport and visa control, we walked through a tiny terminal where we exchanged money and purchased local SIM cards, then took a taxi to our hotel. A picturesque view unfolded as we navigated the streets, making us instantly fall in love with this charming town. We checked into our hotel and settled in, and though it was already late, we ventured out to explore the city and eventually found ourselves at a cozy restaurant. The local food was delicious, but they had also mastered the art of pizza making. We ended our day there and went to bed, eager for the adventures that awaited us. The name of the restaurant where we returned multiple times during our stay is Zurich Bread Factory & Cafe. Whether you order traditional Laotian food or a homemade pizza, this place won't disappoint you.
Day 15
Luang Prabang
About Laos and Luang Prabang
Laos is a landlocked Southeast Asian country bordered by China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Myanmar. It's known for its mountainous landscapes, dense forests, and the impressive Mekong River that runs along its western border with Thailand. The country was once part of the Khmer Empire and later became the Kingdom of Lan Xang (Land of a Million Elephants), which thrived from the 14th to the 18th century. The country was heavily affected by the Vietnam War, mainly due to the secret U.S. bombing campaign during the 1960s and 1970s, leaving behind unexploded ordnance still present in some areas. Laos is a developing nation, with agriculture playing a significant role in its economy. The increasing tourism attracts visitors to its natural beauty, historical landmarks, and peaceful atmosphere, particularly in places like Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Luang Prabang is a charming little town in northern Laos, famous for its remarkable combinations of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and French colonial architecture. Situated where the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers converge and surrounded by verdant mountains, it provides a pleasant and tranquil setting. Visitors can explore its many temples and the hilltop of Wat Phou Si. At the same time, Luang Prabang also provides opportunities for outdoor activities like trekking, hiking to Kuang Si Waterfall, and taking boat trips on the Mekong. Beyond its cultural sites and natural attractions, a highlight of this city is witnessing the daily alms-giving ritual, where monks walk through the streets early in the morning to collect food offerings from locals.
After breakfast, we set off to discover the town and book excursions. We had already planned a visit to the waterfall, a jungle trek, a boat ride on the Mekong, and a trip to an elephant sanctuary. After exploring the town, we managed to book a Mekong boat ride and a jungle trek to the waterfall with a visit to an elephant park. In the evening, we had dinner at the same restaurant from the previous day, and once again, everything was delicious. Later in the evening, we stopped by the night market, one of the best we've seen throughout this trip, offering local crafts, textiles, and traditional food.
In Luang Prabang, there's a school called Big Brother Mouse where Laotian children learn English. Foreigners are encouraged to assist by conversing with the children. After being stopped and invited on the street, we were pleased to contribute to the future of these kind individuals by visiting. Feel free to drop by and help them out; it's a wonderful experience for you and a great opportunity for the children.
Things to do
Kuang Si waterfall
Mekong River boat ride
Jungle trekking
Elephant Sanctuary
Phou Si Mountain
Night market
Alms giving ceremony
Day trip to Vang Vieng
Day 16
Luang Prabang - Mekong boat ride
Our very first excursion in Luang Prabang was the Mekong boat ride. After a quick breakfast and hotel pickup, we headed to a local pier to get on the boat. First, we cruised downriver across the Mekong to the serene village of Ban Chan, known for its clay pottery. We strolled through the small town, observing pots being hand-thrown and fired in traditional ovens. We spent about an hour there before moving on to our next destination, the village of Ban Xang Khong, which specializes in creating and selling silk and paper products. As we walked through this village, we had the chance to observe locals operating the weaving looms and browse the beautiful handmade fabrics, including scarves, blankets, and dresses. We boarded the boat and proceeded to Xang Hai, a whiskey village famous for its homemade rice wine and alcohol called Lao Lao, meaning alcohol from Laos. These are available for tasting and purchase, often infused with wildlife such as snakes, lizards, beetles, and scorpions. Gross. From here, we headed to another village for lunch, then cruised to Pak Ou Cave.
Situated on the banks of the Mekong River, this cave is renowned for housing thousands of Buddha statues placed there over centuries by locals and pilgrims. The site consists of two caves: the upper and the lower cave, with the lower one being more accessible and featuring a large number of statues. The caves hold spiritual significance and are considered an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists in Laos. The surrounding area also provides gorgeous views of the river and lush jungle, especially when ascending to the upper cave. Returning to Luang Prabang, we paused on the river to enjoy the beautiful sunset.
Day 17
Kuang Si Waterfall
An adventurous day awaited us, so we eagerly woke up early morning, grabbed breakfast, and proceeded to the bus waiting for us at our hotel. The minivan took us to a small village on a very scenic but super bumpy road. To get there, we navigated winding dirt roads surrounded by steep valleys and verdant forests. We strolled around this simple yet charming village and even saw a traditional family house where generations live together. From there, we embarked on an exciting journey through rubber tree forests, diverse plantations, hills, and valleys. We crossed a stream and walked through the dense jungle. After three hours of hiking, we finally reached a breathtaking viewpoint at the top of the waterfall, where this magnificent cascade appeared. We followed the trail down to admire this beauty up close. Standing 60 meters tall, this waterfall creates beautiful turquoise blue pools where visitors can swim and relax.
Near the falls is a bear rescue center dedicated to protecting and rehabilitating Asiatic black bears. Seeing these beautiful animals living in a safe environment designed to resemble their natural habitats was wonderful.
On our way back to Luang Prabang, we stopped by an elephant camp where visitors can feed these beautiful creatures. Sadly, these animals were not free; they were chained and had limited space to move. Some of them were also fitted with seats, ready to be ridden. Upon arrival at the park, we were informed that they had been rescued, but we were uncertain of the truth. In an effort to support these majestic animals, we purchased a few fruit baskets to feed them, hoping to enhance their well-being.
Once this adventurous tour ended, we returned to the accommodation, freshened up, and headed into town for dinner. We had heard that a local restaurant served Hungarian cuisine, so we decided to try it. Their goulash was surprisingly delicious. Since we planned to watch the alms-giving ceremony early the following day, we went to bed shortly after dinner.
Tip: When planning a visit to an elephant sanctuary, ensure you book through an agency. Many local tours lead to camps like the one we visited, which aren't genuine sanctuaries. Had we been aware, we would have avoided that place. In true sanctuaries, elephants roam freely and are not chained. Additionally, those tours are significantly more expensive, providing a personal interaction with the animals.
We arranged both the Mekong river boat ride and the jungle trek through an agency named Laos Ecotourism Travel in Luang Prabang. You can check out their organized tours on their website and book them through the WhatsApp number provided there. We were pleased with both tours (except for the elephant camp); the guides were friendly and knowledgeable, and the drivers were punctual.
Day 18
Luang Prabang - Alms giving ceremony
Besides watching the alms-giving ceremony, we dedicated our last day to discovering the numerous temples in town and hiking up to Mount Phousi to enjoy the sunset.
Alms-giving is a beautiful and spiritual tradition where, each morning, monks walk through the streets to receive alms, usually consisting of food offerings like sticky rice, fruits, and other simple items. This is conducted in silence, creating a peaceful atmosphere. It's an important practice in Lao culture and Buddhism, symbolizing the connection between monks and the community. Tourists often gather to observe or participate in this ritual, but it's crucial to approach it respectfully, as it's a sacred act. The guidelines suggest refraining from using flash for photos, keeping a distance, and dressing properly.
Although we were eager to witness this ritual, we felt quite disappointed. We respect this practice's religious significance and importance, but to us, it appeared more like a performance than a sacred event. Locals attempted to sell us seats and items, which did not interest us as we did not feel connected to this religious act. Additionally, seeing all the food items discarded in front of everyone made us question the purpose of the whole practice. A very annoying aspect of the ceremony was the noisy tourists getting close to the monks and taking their photos with flash. While we expected to see something pure and sacred, truth be told, the entire experience was disappointing, so we returned to the hotel to get some more sleep before venturing out again.
Our aim for the rest of the day was to see as many temples as we could, and we managed to visit several, including Wat Xien Thong (also known as the Golden City Monastery), Wat Sensoukharam (The Temple of the Patriarch), and Wat Sop Sickharam, to mention a few. Each temple is uniquely beautiful, showcasing Laos' rich spiritual heritage.
Tip: Remember that appropriate attire is necessary to enter these temples.
After an early dinner, we headed to Mount Phousi to catch the sunset from its peak. We didn't know what to expect, but the view left us speechless once we arrived. This hill, standing 150 meters tall, hosts numerous temples and shrines along the path, making it an important religious location. Visitors must climb 328 steps to reach the top, passing small temples and Buddha statues on the way. At the summit, we were greeted with gorgeous views of Luang Prabang, the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, and the distant verdant mountains. Watching the sunset from this majestic hill was genuinely incredible. We thoroughly enjoyed the day, and before walking back to the hotel, we stopped by the night market to pick up some souvenirs.
Day 19-20
Vientiane
With an afternoon train to the capital city, we wandered around town, arranged a ride to the train station, and packed our things. We enjoyed a big breakfast, and soon, our tuk-tuk was ready. The journey to the train station took about thirty minutes. Upon entering the station, security was strict, similar to airport procedures. The train was punctual, clean, and comfortable, and the scenery along the way was picturesque, with the only distraction being a group of loud passengers. After two hours, we arrived in Vientiane. To get to our accommodation, we grabbed a tuk-tuk again. The ride to the city center took a while as the driver picked up a few more passengers. Once we settled in, we visited the local market, which was rather a letdown; it seemed more like a mall in Chinatown than a local market, and we didn't care much for the fake designer bags. So we grabbed dinner, returned to the hotel, and went straight to bed.
Attractions in Vientiane:
COPE Visitor Center
Patuxay Victory Gate
Pha That Luang gold-covered stupa
Xieng Khuan Buddha Park
Kaysone Phomvihane Museum - a memorial named after the first leader of Laos' independence
Wat That Khao - a famous religious site with an iconic golden reclining Buddha
Wat Si Muang - a temple named after a young woman who sacrificed herself for the city of Vientiane
Tip: if you plan to extend your stay in Laos, dedicating more time to Luang Prabang and/or visiting Vang Vieng, just an hour's train ride from Luang Prabang, would be an excellent way to enjoy the region. In Luang Prabang, you can engage in various rural activities, such as touring an organic farm or taking a cooking class. Meanwhile, Vang Vieng offers thrilling experiences like hot air balloon rides, tubing, or kayaking.
As our trip was coming to an end, we were feeling somewhat exhausted, and our excitement was slowly waning. We were not particularly interested in visiting more temples or Buddha statues, but wanted to take advantage of the whole day we had in Vientiane, so we agreed to see the COPE Visitor Center and the Patuxay Victory Gate.
The COPE Visitor Center is an educational site dedicated to addressing the problem of unexploded ordnance in Laos. It emphasizes the country's ongoing challenge with the leftover bombs from the Vietnam War, particularly those from the US bombing campaign. Visitors can learn about the history, the effects of unexploded ordnance on local communities, and the efforts to remove these dangerous remnants. The organization works effortlessly to support the victims of landmines and bombs with prosthetics, rehabilitation, and advocacy.
The visit was deeply emotional, filled with tragic stories of the victims impacted by unexploded bombs. Before entering the exhibition room, there is a small section where you can purchase various items to support the organization or choose to donate.
Once we thoroughly explored the visitor center, we proceeded to the second sight on our itinerary, the Victory Gate. Constructed in the 1960s, this monument commemorates those who fought for Laos' independence from France. Its design is inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, featuring a Laotian touch with traditional Lao architectural elements. The structure, in the heart of Vientiane, is commonly known as the "Victory Gate" as it symbolizes the nation's triumph and pride. Visitors can climb to the top to enjoy panoramic views of the city.
Without any specific plans, we stopped by the local mall, which was a great way to pass the time and explore local boutiques and shops. We tried some Laotian fast food before returning to our hotel, where we arranged transportation to the airport. The flight from Vientiane to Hanoi was just an hour long, and we quickly reached our next accommodation, ready for the final day of our trip.
Day 21
Hanoi
We set off early as we had plans to visit a few places that day, including a pho place and the Bun Cha Huong Lien, known for Barack Obama dining there during his visit to Hanoi.
I hadn't tried much pho in my life, nor during our stay in Vietnam, so this was my last chance to do so. The place we picked was simple but clean, with small plastic chairs and tables. The food was prepared by the entrance, right in front of us, using fresh ingredients. It was indeed a great choice. After the pho experience, we headed to the famous Obama restaurant. As we entered, we first noticed the large crowd and how packed the entire place was. A few minutes later, we got our seats and were ready to order. Naturally, we chose the Obama menu, which includes bun cha, grilled fatty pork served with white rice noodles, herbs, and dipping sauce, a crab spring roll, and local beer. Despite our excitement, the experience was quite disappointing. The bun cha was overly fatty and had poor taste, while the spring roll was dripping in oil. The restaurant is undoubtedly well-known, but I'm not sure if it's because of the quality or its connection to the former president of the United States. The fact that most people were tourists likely explains the place's popularity. Perhaps selecting other dishes would have improved our experience, but we'll never know.
Feeling somewhat let down, we returned to the accommodation to prepare for our flight home. We arranged transportation with our host and arrived at the airport on time, several hours before the flight, allowing us to comfortably drop off our bags, check in for the flight, and even enjoy a proper meal. It was a 6-hour flight to Doha, followed by an overnight layover and another 5-hour flight before we returned to Budapest. It was quite the journey.
Some pros and cons from our perspectives
Positives
Friendly and welcoming nations
Most people we encountered during our journey were friendly, helpful, and warm, enhancing our experience: the officer who genuinely smiled at us upon inspecting our visas in Hanoi, the restaurant owner in Hoi An who didn't want to charge us for the whole meal because we didn't finish everything, or the hotel staff in Siem Reap who assisted us in the middle of the night. All the small things made our stay and restored our faith in humanity.
Relatively cheap places
The countries listed in this blog are generally affordable, offering a wide range of options that make travel accessible to various budgets. In particular, the cost of food is notably low, with local markets and street vendors providing delicious meals at budget-friendly rates. Dining in small family-run restaurants is another economical choice, where the prices often reflect the authenticity of the cuisine.
Accommodation costs are pretty reasonable, especially if you opt for a mid-range hotel. We're not particularly fond of hostels and luxury resorts; we always aim for something in between, and this time, we found excellent deals.
Overall, the combination of low food prices, good transportation, and accommodation deals made our travels more feasible, allowing us to stretch our budget and fully engage in the rich experiences these countries offer.
Authentic cuisine and excellent coffee
We've consistently found restaurants offering delicious food and tasty coffee, especially in Vietnam, renowned for its vibrant culinary scene and diverse flavors. The streets are filled with various eateries, from bustling street food stalls to charming family-run restaurants, each offering dishes that honor the region's cultural heritage. Vietnam, one of the world's largest coffee producers, provides a diverse range of coffee choices that are a must-try for any traveler in the region.
Negatives
Weather
Most regions in Southeast Asia experience two seasons: wet and dry. The dry season lasts from November to May, and the rainy season from June to October. From March to May, during our visit, temperatures can rise to 38 degrees Celsius, but the evenings are typically cooler, offering a break from the daytime heat. Humidity is consistently high all year. Considering these factors, planning was somewhat challenging due to the unbearable heat on certain days. Make sure to apply sunscreen before heading out, and always stay hydrated.
Touristy places
Keep in mind that most well-known attractions draw a large number of tourists regardless of the time of the year. You might experience long waiting lines, large crowds, and noisy tourists, which can be irritating, especially when visiting sacred sites. However, as terrible as it sounds, being aware of these aspects can help set realistic expectations and enhance the experience at popular destinations.
Hectic traffic, especially in Vietnam
I've already talked about the traffic situation in Vietnam. It's essential to stay alert at all times when you're out on the streets, as vehicles and scooters often disregard pedestrians. In bustling areas, the constant noise and honking can be overwhelming for those not accustomed to it. However, with time, you can adapt to their traffic culture and move through the streets with greater confidence.
Poverty
This wasn't our first journey where we witnessed poverty. It's a worldwide problem, and regardless of how often you've encountered it, it always impacts you. Both children and the elderly face conditions we couldn't imagine living in. Essential needs such as water, toilet, or electricity are missing from their daily lives. Yet, they seem happy and smile every time they see you.
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